Category: Alaska

Day Trip To Homer

Day Trip To Homer

While we were in the Seward area we decided to take a day trip over to Homer. We had no plans of actually staying over on that side of the peninsula, but we did want to see it.

kenai_peninsula_map

I thought a map might help you visualize where we went. We started in Seward and went all the way around to Homer. It doesn’t really look that far, does it? We left around eight in the morning and got back just after midnight. It was a very long day, but we feel like it was worth the drive!

The first city we stopped in was Kenai. And, the first thing we did was get lunch. We were starving! We asked at the Visitor Center where a good place to eat would be and was pointed over to the Burger Bus which was within walking distance…so that was a plus because we were wanting to stretch our legs after the long drive. The portions were big and the food was hot! It was better than your typical fast food burger…you could tell the meat had been frozen…but it was a decent burger.

Once we were certain no one would wilt away from hunger, we set off to see Kenai and head toward Homer.

Kenai was the first European settlement on mainland Alaska when it was colonized by Russian fur traders. You can see the Russian influence in some of the buildings. The church and the chapel above were the prettiest and best preserved. You can still see quite a bit of what was left over from the Russians in certain parts of Alaska.

Welcome to the Cook Inlet. That big peak you see in the photo above is a volcano. I didn’t know that there are still a string of active volcanoes just off the Alaskan coast.

The entire beach around the Cook Inlet was covered with fishermen. Alaskan’s take their fishing seriously and the birds are always near to try and steal a catch. It was kind of crazy the number of fishermen that were lined up on that beach! I would be afraid I’d catch someone’s hook as they were wildly casting…No thank you.

We found this huge patch of fireweed in a park in Kenai. I wanted to show y’all how big this stuff can get!! I love this plant! And the fact that it’s my favorite color doesn’t hurt. Ha!

From Kenai we went back to Soldotna. Alaskan’s are serious about their fishing, but they’re also very serious about preserving their land. All around Soldotna and several of the other towns we passed through, there are fishwalks on the banks. The fishwalks are to ensure that the river banks don’t get ruined which would cause the fish to stop going there to spawn. You can see a fishwalk in the picture above. Notice there are even stairs that lead right down into the river. The fishwalk above is right behind the Soldotna Visitor Center. That’s the Kenai River you can see in the photos! It doesn’t really show up that great in the photo, but the water is turquoise! If you look closely, you’ll see all of the fishing docks along the right side of the river. Every available space was crammed with fishermen trying to get their daily limit. A lot of Alaskans live the subsistence lifestyle where they spend the whole summer preserving veggies, catching fish and hunting everything they can so they can financially make it through the winter.

And, of course, there were amazing flowers everywhere! Tell me I’m not the only one who takes pictures of flowers! Alaska is overflowing with amazing flowers. All of that sunlight does wonderful things for plants!

Right in the middle of Soldotna is one of the busiest places we saw. The Moose is Loose Bakery! We stopped in and got a few goodies to have the next morning! They were tasty…and big! The chocolate covered donut you see there…it was the size of a plate.

On our way out of Soldotna we stopped by the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters. Above, you’ll see a life size statue of a moose. They get big! Everything in Alaska is big!! But the moose…wow! And moose are dangerous! They will run you down and stomp all over you if they feel the least bit threatened.

Nicholas and Alex worked for their first Fish & Game badge while we were at the National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters. We walked down a short trail to a lake near the NGWR as part of their Junior Ranger requirements. The lake was calm and beautiful. I snuck out on the dock to get the picture above…we were pretty sure they didn’t want anyone on it.

I wasn’t there long…shhh…don’t tell anyone.

We spent about an hour there and the boys completed all of the requirements for the badge. This is one of their favorite badges so far. I really like that’s it’s blue and not just the standard gold that all the other National Park badges are.

This beauty is called Devil’s Club. We see it all over the place. It’s not a nice plant. Pretty, but not nice. Look at all of those thorns! And the berries are poisonous too. There was an abundance of Devil’s Club on the trail to the lake. We tried our best to avoid it, but it would reach out and grab one of us occasionally.

Our next stop was Homer! We stopped by the city sign for the obligatory photo. Alex and Nicholas don’t mind posing for me but Charlie doesn’t always want to…he’s at that age.

On the into downtown Homer we pulled off at Bay Crest Hill to get a view of the area. Not a bad view, right? We were told that line of mountains in the distance area all volcanoes. I don’t know if that’s true…but…dang that’s a lot of volcanoes! I got a picture of the Homer Spit from our vantage point. You can really see how it juts out into the Kachemak Bay…and looks so flat!

We drove all the way out to the tip of the Homer Spit to get a good look at Kachemak Bay. It was gorgeous! We haven’t found a bad view of coastal Alaska anywhere.

We headed back up the Spit to check out what else it offered. Now, we had heard from a few people about The Salty Dawg Saloon. Y’all know saloons are not really our thing, but we went to check it out anyway. The boys stayed outside while we stuck our heads inside. There’s a story about The Salty Dawg…I don’t know how true it is…but a long time ago someone went in and left a dollar for his friend who was coming in later. Ever since then, it’s a tradition to leave a dollar. It was neat to see all of those dollar bills posted up on all of the walls and ceiling. We didn’t leave a dollar…we didn’t get anything to eat or drink there so we didn’t really feel like we should.

There’s also a small boardwalk with shops along the Spit. They are, as you would imagine…for the tourists. We saw the highest prices yet while in Homer. In fact, we walked into a seafood restaurant, sat down and got a look at the prices on the menu and got up and walked out. We aren’t going to pay over $20 for a kids menu item. We just aren’t going to do it…even in Alaska. It wasn’t a fancy place so the prices really shocked us. We left and found a burger place that fit us much better.

The Spit looks flat from above, so I was surprised to see actual houses right in the middle of the Spit. I love the bright colors of the houses in front of the mountains.

The last thing we did on The Spit was walk by the Boat Graveyard…which ended up being someone’s privately owned property. So, we didn’t get to walk through it, but we got to see some neat boats. The owner of the Boat Graveyard actually lived in a huge, ancient boat right there on the Spit. I didn’t get a picture of it…I felt weird taking a picture of someone’s house.

On the way back to Seward, we stopped at Anchor Point to snap a picture at North America’s most westerly highway point. We’ll have to get one at the most easterly point too!

We stopped at a pull off not too far from Anchor Point because the sunset was too good to not get this shot. It was around 10PM and the sun was finally starting to make it’s way to the horizon. There was a small rainbow above the peak on the left…I believe those area called sundogs… We milled about a few minutes and headed back to our home-on-wheels.

We even saw a few moose grazing by the side of the road! This shot was taken just after 11PM. Dusk for this area.

We had a very long, very memorable day driving to Homer. We missed some of the things we wanted to stop and see, but there are only so many hours in the day.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

#myalaska

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National park is 607,805 acres of unspoiled wilderness on the southeast coast of Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. There are three ways you can visit the park in Seward: 1. Take a cruise, 2. Go to the visitor center in downtown Seward and do a Ranger Walk (the Ranger Walk isn’t technically in the NP), and 3. Go to the Exit Glacier portion of the park (this is the only part of the park you can drive to). We did all three of these things! I posted about the cruise in a separate post because it would have made this post too long.

We did our Ranger Walk on a beautiful Sunday afternoon. The Ranger Walk is only offered on Sunday afternoon and is geared toward kids. Our ranger was a college student working on her Master’s degree in Zoology. It was at this point, our 15 year old decided that maybe rangers weren’t all that bad. ;-P The boys had a great time walking along the shore line while learning about glaciers and fjords and what kinds of things Rangers do. They also earned their Fjords Ranger Patch!

We went to the Exit Glacier portion of the park twice. The first time we went we did the easy one mile hike to the Exit Glacier viewing area. Alex and Nicholas did the Explorer Packs on this visit. The NP lets you check out a backpack that has all kinds of activities you can choose from. Alex kept track of water temperature in different places during the hike and Nicholas identified several plants and trees. The loved this hands-on activity and it got them the Glacier Patch!

The trail was a great path with stairs. This was our first glimpse of the glacier while on the hike. You can’t really get very close to Exit Glacier because they’ve got it all roped off to try and protect it and…let’s be honest…to try and protect the dorks that would go out onto the glacier and get hurt.

We saw this little vole on the way back down to the Visitor Center. He’s a red backed vole and he was amazingly not afraid of us. At all. I walked right by him on the path and he didn’t budge. In the left photo above you can see some of the glacier washout. All of the water running off the glacier runs through there. People camp out there too! I wouldn’t. It’s all rocky and prone to high water. That just doesn’t sound like a good time to me. Not to mention the bears…

Now, I like to keep it real for you so I’m going to tell you about the hardest hike we’ve made on this trip so far. And boy is it a doozy.

The second time we went to the Exit Glacier area we decided to do the Harding Icefield Trail. We planned ahead and brought our hike packs with water and snacks…we even brought a couple of jackets because on prior hikes we’d run into rain and cold on top of the mountain. Remember Whistler Mountain in the Oh Canada post? This hike is an eight and a half mile (round trip) hike. It gains 1,000 feet of height per mile on the way up.

It started off great!! A gentle upward hike through the forest to the trail board where you’re supposed to check in and out so the park can keep track of everyone. The up started right after the trail board. It was still pretty gentle. We’ve decided the NP was trying to lull us into a false sense of security.

We would hike a while then stop and rest a few minutes. Nicholas and Alex decided to do the Explorers workbook (which is meant for 13+ years) this time so they could get all four of the available badges offered at this NP. They would work on it during our breaks. Everyone was still feeling pretty good about the hike at this point. We’d gone maybe a mile…but we thought we’d gone farther than that. Because it really felt like we’d gone two miles…at least.

The views were amazing! We would huff and puff up to a flat-ish place and look up and see things like what’s in the photo above. When they said the trail gains 1,000 feet every mile, they weren’t joking. Right around here we got to a place in the hike that had a trail marker that told us we still had over two miles left in the hike. We were all really feeling all of that up. We were hot, our legs were wobbly, and the trail was more advanced than what we had ever hiked before.

We talked to some people coming down the trail and they assured us that the hard part was almost over. If we could just make it up the switchbacks, we’d be home free…the trail would flatten out. So, we pushed on after taking in the great view.

The views during this entire hike were absolutely breathtaking. It’s hard to be in a bad mood when you’re surrounded by the wild beauty of Alaska. It was during the switchbacks that Jerl’s legs started cramping up and we all started to really feel the burn. If you work out, think about a leg day that you pushed yourself way too hard…that’s where we were and we still had about 2 more miles of up to go. Any normal family would have called it quits and gone back down while they could still move. Not us though. Oh, no…we kept getting told how we were soooo close and how if we made it up to this certain point it all flattens out. We didn’t’ want to wimp out so close to the finish. We had some serious FOMO going on.

We met up with this marmot. He chirped and chattered at us the whole time we shuffled by him. He was super cute!

We finally made it past the switchbacks and all of the huge rocks you have to get up and over. They put them cleverly on the path to act as steps…I’m sure giants have no trouble with them. By this point I was really ready to just head down. The boys were miserable, I was beyond done, and Jerl was having issues with his legs. But…we thought maybe we’d finally reached the promised “flattened out” area. We couldn’t stop now! Right?

This is also where the landscape changed. We’d hiked up past all of the trees and shrubbery to where it’s just rock and snow. I love the way the melting snow made little waterfalls. It was so nice to be able to reach into a stream of cold water and wipe off your face. The boys loved seeing all of the snow!

The change in the trail gave us a second wind. It never flattened out…I don’t know why those crackpots told us the trail flattened out, but it never did. Not even a little! I think they felt bad for us and were trying to encourage us to go on. It worked…we kept going… We got a second wind and the trail wasn’t quite as hard as it had been and the views…well…look at the photo above. That was the view Jerl had to sit and look at for a while the boys and I went ahead. He would try and catch up when he could.  We really were so very close to the prize.

The boys and I went on. We all had fun slipping and sliding over the snow. The boys were amazed with all the snow and kept saying, “There’s snow in the summer!” And asking if they could play in it.

We hiked up the incline in the previous photo and turned a corner only to come face to face with the view in the right photo above. We were eye level with a mountain top! Eye Level! We marveled and guessed at just how high we really were as we hiked on. As soon as we started seeing snow, the boys wanted to make snow angels. They asked every time we came to a snowy patch, but it wasn’t until this patch that I felt like it would be safe enough. They took off their packs and had a good time playing for a few minutes. The snow will look flat and sturdy, but it can be hiding crevasses that will plunge you down many many feet. I had to be sure it was safe for them to play.

We rounded another corner and saw came face to face with this view. We really were surrounded by beauty! It felt kind of like we’d been zapped to another world. I had a hard time trying to keep the camera still through all of my huffing and puffing. Ha!

There’s a storm shelter near the top. We had maybe half a mile left at this point. We took a small breather to explore the cabin and then pushed on.

And this…this is the reason we hiked all the way up there. This is the Harding Icefield! This icefield spawns off more than forty glaciers! It stretched on so far we couldn’t’ tell where it ended and the clouds started. It really looked like it just went on forever. Another family at the top offered to take a picture of us.

We had finally made it to the top!

We started back down and found Jerl had made his way up to almost the top! He’d stopped again just before the last climb, but when he found out just how close he was he made it up to the top too! I’m so glad we all got to see the Icefield! We didn’t stick around long. It had taken us five hours to get up to the top. Yup, you read that right…Five. Hours. Five hours for just over four miles and now we had to trek back down those same four-ish miles to get to the bottom. Thank goodness it doesn’t really get dark here.

We turned around to head back down and  we noticed the mountain goats! There were two different herds of them just hanging out on the slopes. They were so far away they looked more like fluffy white rocks. Thank goodness for binoculars and zoom lenses!

We made better time going down. Gravity was in our favor. The trail changes abruptly form rocks (in the left photo) to this brushy vegetation (in the right photo). It looks lovely, but if you brush against most of those plants, they’ll try to eat you. There was a ton of the wild celery which you want to avoid at all costs. There were also a ton of wild raspberry and rumors of a bear in the area. We never saw the bear, but that marmot we saw earlier was squaring off and arguing with a different marmot. We had to walk between them to get down the path.

This was on our last rest stop when we still had two and a half miles to go. We didn’t stop after this until we got to the car. I don’t think Jerl and I could have gotten up and gotten going again if we’d sat down. We made it to the car just before 9PM. It took us nine hours, but we did it! The boys were troopers. They were just as miserable as we were, but they didn’t whine or complain. We’re so incredibly proud of how they handled the whole hike.

So there you have it…the hardest thing we’ve done so far on this trip. We really should have turned back. I guess what they say is true, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.

Lesson learned…we can do hard things and come out the other side stronger.

We now know our limit. We gave the boys the day off after our hike. We didn’t do much of anything…mainly because none of us could move. We were all so soo sore!

We did go back to the visitor center the next day so the boys could turn in the workbook they’d completed.

The boys earned all four patches/badges available at the Kenai Fjords National Park! They sure are proud about it and are hoping other NPs will have a Junior Ranger and a Senior Ranger badge to earn.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

#keepingitreal

Kenai Fjords Cruise

Kenai Fjords Cruise

The Orca Voyager and her crew took us out on an eight and a half hour cruise around the Kenai Fjords Peninsula. We’d been looking forward to this cruise for a long time and it did not disappoint! I’ll be honest, I’m not sure how much commentary you’ll get on this post…the pictures kind of speak for themselves, but I’ll do my best to point out what I can.

The majority of this cruise was actually in the Kenai Fjords National Park which is about the only way you can visit this part of this particular NP. I’m going to concentrate on the cruise this time, but I’ll do another post specifically about Kenai Fjords National Park later.

Before we even got out of the bay, we had our first wildlife encounter. Sea Otters! They spent most of their time diving down to get food then floating on their backs to eat it.

The landscape along the waterline was really impressive. In this little cove we found a bunch of Seals. Our boat Captain was an expert at getting us up close to the wildlife. The seals lifted their heads to check us out then went back to snoozing in the sun. They seemed pretty unbothered by the big boat of paparazzies.

Something you should know about these day cruises… There are plenty of seats for everyone inside, but only a few seats outside. Now, if I’m going to invest in one of these cruises, I want to be outside where I can get a really good view of everything. We made sure to get to the boat early then claimed a row of seats (there were only four) outside near this back corner of the boat.

We couldn’t get over the color of the water and how the shoreline felt so dramatic. In most of the coves we went into closer to Seward there were small fishing boats. I thought the picture above would help give you a sense of just how massive some of these islands in the coves really were. I call them small fishing boats…but they were the size of an RV.

And, because I’m going to keep it real for y’all, I’ll admit to you…when the pod of orcas showed themselves…I was stuck in the bathroom. I could hear the Captain telling everyone where to look and talking about them, but I couldn’t for the life of me get out of the door. So, I missed most of it. I was super bummed about that. Luckily, Charles was there with his brand new camera and snapped several great shots! Both of the shots I’m posting are ones he took.

This is what Charles looked like for most of the day. I think at the end of the day he had somewhere around 200 to 300 pictures. He likes to combine them and make new landscapes for stories he’s working on.

I lost count of all the glaciers we saw. This one was pretty spectacular the way it just went on forever. And then there were the waterfalls! I’ve never seen so many waterfalls! They were in every nook and cranny of every cove we saw.

The day started off overcast, but the farther out to sea we got, it became more of a cloud dappled sky. We would get these moments of brilliant sunlight that would make us say “oh wow!” I’m not sure how many times we found ourselves saying that. It seemed to be the theme of the day.

This group of sea lions started calling out to us as we passed by. It was like they were telling us to go away so they could enjoy their sunny rock in peace. Apparently, sea lions are very territorial and some actually jumped into the water to try and chase us off.

It was right around noon-ish in the trip that the crew passed around a light lunch. It was nothing spectacular, but it was very appreciated and tasted really good. The lunch consisted of a chicken Cesar wrap, a bag of sun chips and a granola bar. They did a modified wrap for Charles since he’s allergic to dairy…we thought that was really great…and very appreciated.

This spot was probably the highlight of our day! We got to sit close to this glacier for a while watching it. We heard it moan and groan and then crack.

We got to see it calve several times! It was really amazing!

There was ice floating in the water and the crew scooped some out for everyone to touch and feel. I was informed by both Nicholas and Alex that glacier ice out of the sea is way cooler than regular ice. These two monkeys grabbed a chunk of ice that had fallen off the big one the crew brought around. The glacier ice had tons of air bubbles in it. It was really neat to see!

If you look to the left of the picture above, you’ll see a boat that was about the same size as the boat we were on. This picture really gives you a feel for how massive this glacier is.

This glacier was the farthest out our cruise would go so after we left there, we started back toward Seward.

The boat stopped by an island covered in puffins. Two different kinds of puffins! The one in the picture above is the horned puffin (I think). The other one is called a tufted puffin. These little guys are probably some of my favorite birds! Puffins can actually dive 300 feet into the water to catch fish. Their bones are denser than most bird bones so they’re heavier and can travel farther down into the water at a faster rate. See the group of birds in the picture above? Now look right in the middle of them at the dark blob in the water. That blob is called a bait ball. Groups of different kinds of birds will work together to gather fish into a tight ball to eat. Puffins will dive down and scare the fish upward while other birds will start bringing them in from a shallower depth around the sides and then the birds feast. We saw several of these and they are kind of amazing to see!

We saw a few humpback whales too! They never came all the way up out of the water…just up for a breath then back down. I did catch the tail of a momma and the hump of the calf. We stopped in this area for several minutes hoping to see more of them, but the Captain had a schedule to keep and was trying to get us to Fox Island for our dinner. He apologized for not being able to stay longer but he was afraid the Chef would get after him for making us late for dinner. Ha! We didn’t mind. Fresh, hot food sounded so good by this time! Honestly, anything hot sounded good by this point! It was really cold out on the water!

This is Fox Island. We docked here and unloaded for a steak and salmon dinner! The dinner was buffet style. Sorry for the blurry pictures, but…well…food. I was lucky to get these two shots off before grabbing a plate. We only had an hour to eat and do any exploring we wanted to do. There were some cabins on the island that you could rent. The food was great! The service was spot on! And there was a Park Ranger there who gave a presentation about Kenai Fjords NP while we ate. We enjoyed every minute of this meal!

The crew passed around freshly baked chocolate chip cookies as we were leaving Fox Island. They were still gooey and warm… It was such a treat!

Any guesses as to what animal this skull belongs to?

It’s an orca skull! Look at all of those sharp teeth!

The boys wanted to get their picture taken with Captain Eric. He was a great Captain! He really was amazing at getting us right up close into the tight spaces so we could experience Kenai Fjords better. See those cups the boys are holding? Those are $7 souvenir cups that you can buy and get free refills in all day. We definitely got our money’s worth with them!

Here’s a picture of the boys with the First Mate and the Crew! I really feel like we lucked out with the Captain and Crew that we got. They were stellar! They made the day fun and entertaining and made sure everyone had everything they needed. If y’all ever find yourselves in Seward make sure you go to Kenai Fjords Cruise and ask for Captain Eric! You won’t regret it!

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Hatcher Pass

Hatcher Pass

Our absolute favorite thing to do in the Palmer/Wasilla area was to explore Hatcher Pass in the Talkeetna Mountains.

In 1906 Robert Lee Hatcher staked the first gold claim in the Willow Creek district. Gold contained in quartz veins within solid rock is called “hard-rock” or lode gold. With the discovery of the Hatcher claim, gold mining switched from panning in the streams to digging underground. In 1937, construction began on the Independence camp and mill which later became Independence Mine. By 1941, the Independence mill, camp, and mine employed 206 men and 16 families who recovered 140,000 ounces of gold before the mine was shut down in 1943 after gold mining was classified as nonessential during World War II. In 1974 the Independence Mine was placed into the National Register of Historic Places and in 1981 it was dedicated as a Historic Landmark. Today, Independence Mine is open to the public to explore and learn what life was like for the miners and their families back in the 1940s.

There are several trails and plenty of buildings to explore. We only had two hours before the gates closed so we kind of rushed through the Independence Mine area. I always find it interesting to compare the cost of living then to the cost of living now.

The Visitor Center closed forty five minutes after we got there so we quickly borrowed a few gold pans and tried our hand at panning for gold in the stream that ran through the Independence Mine area. We didn’t find any this time, but we aren’t giving up! The boys all tried their hand at it and had a good time trying not to fall into the stream!

Some of the buildings have been preserved so nicely, while many other buildings have fallen into ruins. I think it added to the landscape. To see buildings standing that looked like they could (with a little work) be used again today while not far away from them were collapsed buildings…it really gave it a ghost town feel.

The photo above gives you a good idea of the landscape and how the Mine was dotted about the natural land formations.

There were views in every direction. We could make a whole postcard book from the shots we got here!

In the left photo above you’ll see the only tunnel left. You can walk to the back of it and feel the temperature drop several degrees. I believe it was called a water tunnel. I’m not entirely sure of all of the details about it, but it was neat to see. The train tracks in the right photo had long ago fallen. We thought they looked cool and wondered what happened to make them twist and become misshapen.

It looks like when the Mine was closed down, the residents got their belongings and left without any thought to the supplies left in the shops. In the right photo you can see part of an old train. The carts could dump things to the front or to the side. We must be nerds because we love learning all about these kinds of things!

We had to hurry through the gates before they closed for the night. They won’t wait for you if you’re late and if you’re unlucky enough to get stuck there the park impounds your car and it’s a very long walk back to the RV Park.

A few days later we came back to Hatcher Pass to explore the Summit Lake State Recreation Area where you can drive to nearly 4,000 feet above sea level on a winding dirt road to be rewarded with an alpine tundra meadow to explore. There were several hiking options. We chose the April Bowl Trail. The April Bowl Trail climbs up to a height of 4,811 feet. It was a steep, rocky climb! I wasn’t prepared for how I would react to it. I had a little melt down after slipping and almost falling for the umpteenth time…I was done with it. I was stressed and worried about breaking my camera. The boys were up the trail some so they didn’t see me melt down… Jerl talked me down from it. We definitely balance each other. Once I gathered myself we headed on up the trail.

The path takes you right by a lovely turquoise tarn called April Bowl which is where the hike gets it’s name. You can see it in the bottom photo above. Once we got a little higher, we saw more of April Bowl and noticed there’s still snow and ice around one of the little ponds. Excuse the water drops on the lens…it started sprinkling on us.

The views from the top were stellar! We were rewarded with 360° views. I was so thankful that Jerl was able to talk me into continuing! I would have missed some absolutely stunning views.

On the way back down, we stopped to play in the snow. Since we moved to Texas, the boys haven’t had the opportunity to really play in the snow. They had a great time throwing snowballs and just being boys.

And, of course, there were the flowers! There were flowers everywhere. Flowers and moss, but no grass. It was really…spongy walking around the alpine meadow.

This is the final post about the Palmer/Wasilla area. We had the best time in this area and we’ve all decided we’ll have to go back to this area if we ever get to come to Alaska again.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Palmer/Wasilla Area Fun

Palmer/Wasilla Area Fun

We thoroughly enjoyed the Palmer/Wasilla area. It was exactly the combination of being close enough to the stores we need and being far enough from the rush of the city that we like.

One of the things I’ve been looking forward to doing is learning more about the Iditarod Sled Dog Race. We were able to go to the Headquarters in Wasilla for a few hours.

The Iditarod Trail started out as a mail and supply route from the coastal towns of Seward and Knik to the interior mining camps. Mail and supplies went in and gold came out all by sled dog. The Iditarod Sled Dog Race is a commemoration of the years mushers spent running desperately needed supplies to the mining camps.

You really can’t compare any other competitive event to the Iditarod. The Mushers and their dog teams have to go through a thousand miles of the roughest terrain Mother Nature has to offer. Jagged mountain ranges, frozen rivers, desolate tundras, and dense forest…lets add in the weather now…temps far below zero, winds that cause complete loss of visibility, and the long hours of darkness that make up the Alaskan winters. Sound fun? Yeah, you couldn’t pay me enough to do this race. Maybe that’s what makes me so curious about it. Why would anyone willingly do this?

The race starts the first Saturday in March when the racers line up in Anchorage and race all the way to Nome. Every year, people come from all over the world to participate in this historic race. It takes a lot of people to make this race possible, from the veterinarians that come to check each dog to the volunteers that help man the outposts that dot the raceway. It’s been called the “Last Great Race On Earth” and it’s easy to see why.

While we were in the main office of the Iditarod Wasilla Headquarters, we were told that we should go play with the puppies. That, in fact, playing with the puppies is a vital part of their training because it helps them get used to being around a lot of different people.

Well, OK…twist our arms…we’ll go play with your adorable puppies! I mean, look at that sweet little face…how could we turn down the opportunity to cuddle…I mean…help train Iditarod Sled Dogs?

We tried our best to wake them up. We passed them around, jiggled them, pet them, talked to them…and they slept and grunted through the whole thing. The boys hated every minute of it…can’t you tell by the looks on their faces?

After we got our fill of puppy lovin’ we headed over for our turn on the sled. Meet our dog team. Here we are on the…er…sled/buggy. The owner actually asks if you want her to take pictures. We didn’t have to ask, we didn’t have to pay… We thought that was a really great touch. The owners genuinely seemed pleased that people were coming to see their dogs and help them train them.

Our team was quick and nimble. One kept trying to lick all of the bushes and another one kept trying to jump over the dog in front of it. Hey, we did tell you they were in training. Nicholas and Alex spent the entire ride giggling and laughing while Charlie had a huge grin plastered on his face! All three boys talked about it for days. We had to do a little more Sled Dog lovin’ after our ride. They really are awesome dogs. I had four boys (you can see them in the picture above) who were wanting to sneak a puppy home. I would have agreed if I’d thought we would actually get away with it. *wink*

In the picture above you can see one of the older sleds used in the race. It really amazes me to think of what that sled has been through. How many races did it see?

That same day we went to the Matanuska Valley Musk Ox Farm in Palmer. Musk Ox is a descendant from the last ice age which means they used to roam around with woolly mammoths and saber tooth tigers.  The musk ox is known to the Alaskan Natives as “Oomingmak”, which means “The Bearded One”.

There was a great little museum with all kinds of touch and feel itmes for the boys to look through while we waited for the tour to start. The farm had around eighty muskoxen. We got to see maybe thirty of them. Apparently, muskox are twitchy little beasties with horrible eyesight. They think kids or someone bending down to take a picture is a wolf and they act aggressively. We actually got to experience this right at the end of our tour when a momma beastie tried to protect her baby from the kiddies (and me) looking at them through the fence. We moved along quickly.

You can see the momma beastie in the left picture above…and if you look very closely you can see the hooves of the baby beastie she was protecting from the wolf/kiddies. Moms…whattya gonna do…we protect our beasties. In a different area of the farm, there were some juvenile muskox who were all too friendly. The boys got to feed them some tasty morsels. Nicholas wasn’t to sure about his hand getting so close to a muskox mouth, but he did it and then thought it was the coolest thing ever.

The muskox on this farm are pampered and fed nicely. Their whole purpose is to produce as much qiviut (qiv-ee-ute) as they possibly can. Qiviut is the underwool of the muskox. It’s eight times warmer than wool, softer than cashmere, and stronger than pretty much any other kind of fiber out there.

It also cost $95 an ounce. Nicholas was extremely dismayed at this. He had been really looking forward to buying some to crochet a scarf for himself. He had to settle for a $5 sample.

We stopped at a pull-off near the Muskox Farm to gawk at this view. No matter how many amazing views we see…it never gets old.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Anchorage, AK

Anchorage, AK

Anchorage is one of those towns I was really looking forward to seeing. I had grand visions of seeing moose right on the streets of the city…bears waddling around our RV park. I mean, it’s Anchorage, Alaska…it should be rugged and wild and embody everything that makes Alaska…Alaska.

When we were in Valdez we struck up a conversation with a couple who live in Anchorage and they started telling us how unsafe the city is. Now, to be honest, we’d heard a few disconcerting things about Anchorage before that, but chalked it up to people visiting the wrong parts. Every city has good and bad parts, but this couple actually lived there. So, we changed our plans and decided to stay in the Palmer area. We’re very pleased with our decision. The RV park we stayed in is really nice. It was close enough to grocery stores but far enough from a city that we felt like we weren’t right in the middle of town. We’ve really enjoyed the Palmer area! I’ve been trying to do a post for each area we stay in, but I’ll have to break this one up into three posts!

So! Anchorage! We got to spend two afternoons exploring Anchorage.

The first place we went was the Information Center. It was a log cabin! I was looking for rustic…it doesn’t get much more rustic than a log cabin. The rest of the city was, well, very city like. So, I was pleased to see at least some of my Anchorage vision was true. This part of Alaska is always boasting about it’s huge vegetables. They even have some cabbages planted right by the info center. I loved all of the flowers!

There was this fantastic mural! I wish I could have gotten a better picture of it, but it was right beside a busy street.

Every Saturday in the summer, Anchorage has Saturday Market. It’s a farmer’s market plus craft show plus vendor market. We saw some of those huge vegetables there! Squash and zucchini twice the size I’ve ever seen them!

Totem poles are big in Alaska. Every town we’ve been in has had them. This one is the best one I’ve seen so far.

We found a beach and had to skip some rocks. All of the beaches we’ve seen have been rock beaches. We’ve seen tons of sand here…just not at the beaches! There was quite a bit of graffiti at this beach, but  the views were stellar.

The second afternoon we spent in Anchorage, we went to the Alaska Zoo! We really enjoyed this zoo. It was laid out a bit weird and some of the exhibits were empty, but all of the animals were healthy and happy and the habitats were all huge! Oh! And, all of the animals were indigenous to the Alaskan climate! We really enjoyed getting to see some of Alaska’s wild animals up close.

Here are some of our favorite pictures from the zoo.

Leopard. *Picture taken by Charles. There was an entire wolf pack. The Dall Sheep seemed to be napping.

These two bear cubs are orphans. The zoo has an orphan center. We’ve seen tons of Trumpeter Swans in the wild, but we’re always driving down the road and I haven’t been able to get a picture of one.

Of course the Alaska zoo would have polar bears!! They’re getting ready to expand the polar bear habitat and it’s going to be huge! I’d love to be able to go back and see it when it’s done someday! Last but not least is the Bald Eagle! There were two of them in this exhibit and they were gorgeous!

Most of the animals at the Alaska Zoo are either orphaned or they were injured in some way and can’t be released back into the wild. We’re keeping a list of our top zoos. Houston still has the top slot, but Alaska is firmly in the number two slot!

Am I the only person who goes to the zoo and takes pictures of the flowers?

We ended our Anchorage adventure the only way any self-respecting tourist would…with chocolate. We went to the Alaska Wildberry Products store and got some chocolates made right there in the store! When you walk into the store all you smell is the chocolate from this huge chocolate fountain!

So, my overall thoughts on Anchorage…it’s the largest city in Alaska and just like any large city there will be good parts and bad parts. We saw both of these parts, but overall, we enjoyed our day trips there. You just have to be smart about where you go and when you go to some places. I wouldn’t want to stay there. We heard from several sources that there are a lot of shootings in Anchorage. We didn’t see any shootings…but, we did have a couple of people try to come up to us and sell us drugs (me and the boys) while Jerl was running back to the car. I gathered the boys close and gave them a look that told them that this momma dragon will eat you alive if you try to hand her baby dragons drugs. It’s best to not poke the dragon…or really any mother…when her babies are around.

My advise would be to stay in one of the surrounding cities (we love Palmer) and day trip into the city.

See y’all on the road!

#alaskabound

Valdez, AK

Valdez, AK

We spent a week in Valdez and thoroughly enjoyed it! Valdez is a pretty small town with only one grocery store, but it makes up for its lack of “town” with the sheer beauty of its surrounding landscape.

We knew we were in for something special as we drove through Keystone Canyon oooing and ahhhing over the many glaciers, waterfalls, and ice caves! Nicholas and Alex are standing in front of Bridal Veil Falls in the left photo. We had to chuckle about the name since we’d just seen a Bridal Veil Falls in Canada too. And then around the corner there was Horsetail Falls. Valdez should be known as the land of waterfalls! Everywhere you look you can see waterfalls cascading down the mountainside!

This was our breathtaking view for the week. Not bad, right? We weren’t mad about it.

There was a great marina not far from the RV park we stayed in. I just love all of those jagged mountains behind that calm beautiful water.

Did you know the town of Valdez moved in 1964? The entire town moved four miles down the coast to a more protected part of the coast after a tsunami generated by an earthquake destroyed the original town. You can drive down to the original town site. They have some interpretive signs explaining what happened with some old pictures of what once was. You can see some of the old roads and even a few of the old building foundations and what’s left of the dock in the top picture above. The tide was coming in or we would have gotten closer.

We were in Valdez over July 4th and our RV park had some celebrations! Ever wonder what it would be like to shoot fireworks in a place that never really gets dark? I think it was about 10:30pm-ish when we heard the pops and bangs start going off. We headed outside and enjoyed the show with everyone else in the park!

our favorite thing to do in Valdez was to drive down to the Solomon Gulch Fish Hatchery and try our hand at fishing! We hadn’t planned on salmon fishing while we were in Alaska, but so many people asked us if we were going to that we felt like maybe we should! We got permits, geared up and had such a good time! The boys all learned to really fish with Jerl and I got to take pics and watch for wildlife! It’s a great place to fish for salmon!

They each caught something and some amazing memories were made! I’m so glad all of those people asked if we were going to fish in Alaska…we would never have thought to do this with the boys and honestly, I think it’s a memory they’ll cherish for the rest of their lives.

When we went to clean the fish back at the marina, we found out that the eagles loved to sit on the fish guts shoot with the sea gulls. Jerl showed the boys how to fillet a fish (I think just Alex was actually interested in this).

We spent quite a lot of time at Solomon Gulch. We found ourselves going during high tide to watch the wildlife. The sea lions always put on a great show! They loved the high tide when they would come right up to the hatchery and feast. In the picture above…see the dark mass toward the bottom right? Those are salmon. Hundreds if not thousands of salmon.

All of those fish draw more than just birds and sea lions… We never actually saw a bear at the hatchery. I’m not sure what these rope barricades would do to protect us from an actual bear.

In the picture above, you can see the actual fish hatchery. Love those mountains!

Some smart birds. The birds let the sea lions do all the work for them during high tides. The sea lions would come in and eat their fill while leaving fish parts. When the tide when back out the birds would swoop in and fight over all the fish leftovers. The Bald Eagles even got in on the feasting. When the Eagles would swoop in all of the other birds would scatter. It was pretty funny to watch!

Solomon Gulch ended up being one of…maybe the…favorite memory of our time spent in Valdez. We spent a lot of time hanging out there.

There was a Ranger Station just down the road from our RV park that had a waterfall behind it. I didn’t get a great picture of it…but you could see where this waterfall started all the way up at the top of the mountain! Alex and Nicholas got to put on some bear skins and play at being bears. We got to see up close the differences between the grizzly and the black bear.

We drove to the edge of town to look at the Valdez Glacier. When we got to the dirt road that takes you back to it, we found the basting zone sign. It made us pause for a few minutes. Apparently, they warn you before they blow stuff up though…so we risked it. You can kind of see the glacier there in the center of the top photo above. We couldn’t get very close to it so we didn’t stay long. They were actually there working right next to where you have to stand to see the glacier so, I’m thinking it wasn’t really very safe to be there.

The last thing we did in Valdez was visit the Worthington Glacier! It’s definitely a must see if you’re ever in Valdez!

We walked the trail all the way to the glacier where we stood in awe before having to touch it. We ventured into the cave just far enough to snap some pictures and watch the waterfall. The blue was breathtaking!

Nicholas and Alex had to have their pictures taken while they were sitting on the glacier. It’s super cold. Go figure. Ha!

When we turned around to leave we saw how gorgeous the view was going the other way too! We’d been so intent on the glacier we hadn’t even noticed it. Valdez is going on our list of places we want to revisit someday. We loved everything about it.

And just so you know…bears use picnic tables too.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Wrangell St. Elias National Park

Wrangell St. Elias National Park

Welcome to America’s largest National Park! We were only able to spend a couple of hours here at the Park Visitor Center as we drove through to Valdez. A person could spend a lifetime exploring the mountains and ice fields of Wrangell St. Elias NP! We really wanted to go to the Kennicott National Landmark (which is inside the NP), but it would have taken about 6 hours of driving just to get there…so we’re putting it on our “next time” list. Plus, the road to get to it is an old railroad and has been known to damage tires…we’ll definitely need to plan ahead for that kind of excursion.

In the picture above you’re actually looking at a huge mountain range …you just can’t see it because of the clouds. Just to give you an idea of how big this park really is…six Yellowstones could fit inside Wrangell St. Elias! That’s huge! Most of it is still wild and without roads or trails which can make it a challenge to explore.

The visitor center at this NP was great! It had several hands on displays for kids to actually pick up and touch. The one in the left photo was my favorite. It was really something else to be able to experience what the fur on these animals feels like. The skulls were really cool too! They had some teeny tiny skulls of bats all the way up to bear and moose skulls!

Here’s a few fun facts about Alaska’s unofficial state bird. Any guesses as to what these two containers are filled with? It gave me the heeby jeebies looking at them even though they’re dead.

And then there was this plastic container laying out on the table. Yup, that really says scat. For those who don’t know what scat is…it’s poo. I, of course, had to open it. I’m glad to report it’s not real. It looked very real and I paused before reaching in and touching anything.

There was a short path near the visitor center that wound it’s way in and out of the forest to a few overlooks. I kept peering into the forest looking for bears. I’ve heard they can be so quiet that they can sneak right up behind you and you won’t know they’re there until you turn around and see them…or they kill you.

And then there were the flowers! I love how delicate these look. I can’t get enough of these purple flowers! They’re really everywhere. I would love to get my hands on some seeds. I know a yard in Missouri they would look great in.

This is a fish wheel! We’ve seen several of them in the rivers and streams so we enjoyed the chance to get an up-close look at one. The boys earned another Junior Ranger badge! I think they’re up to eight now with two from Canada. Their knowledge and collection are growing!

Well, that’s all the time we had for this amazing National Park. We would love the chance to come back and do more exploring!

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Tok, AK

Tok, AK

Since we had to leave Haines early, we decided to drive all the way to Tok. There are around 250-ish miles between Haines and Tok and it only took us six or seven hours to drive it on some of the worst roads we’ve seen yet!

So.

Bad.

The one good thing about these roads is getting to see all of the flowers on the side of the roads! Sorry about the shoddy camera work…I’m a newb.

In between the Canada border crossing and the US border crossing we found a nice pull off with the international boundary marker. The boys were in two different countries at the same time! They thought that was pretty cool!

Tok is the first and last town you’ll visit in Alaska Proper.

We stayed in Tok for two days and didn’t do anything since Jerl was catching up on work. It was really kind of nice to have some down time. The campground we stayed at was the Sourdough Campground. It was a nice little campground in the woods, but the sites were kind of hard to get into even though they’re pull-throughs.

What we did like was the pancake toss in the evenings. Now, what we didn’t know, and weren’t really prepared for is the camp circle sharing and the fact that the owner’s sense of humor was…well…a little on the offensive side. He was trying really hard to make it fun, but came off as being too much in your face for most people there. It was awkward.

Alex and Nicholas were drafted to pick up the pancakes after people missed the bucket. Jerl was one of the few to actually get the pancake in the bucket and win a free breakfast. He and the boys went the next morning before we pulled out and collected his free breakfast.

I hope next time we’re in Tok we can spend a little time exploring.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

Haines, AK

Haines, AK

We started our Alaskan adventure off in the small Portage Cove town of Haines. We had an amazing place to stay that was right on the water where we spent most days watching the Bald Eagles playing in the breeze.

The only problem with Haines?

The cruise ships.

When they came in to port the internet would come to a screeching halt which made it pretty much impossible for the Jerl to work. He would get up really early and try to get some done before the ship would come in and then wait until it left late that night. All that free time during the day gave us ample opportunity to do some exploring!

Haines is known as The Valley of Eagles! And Guys, there were a ton of them there! This is the best shot I got. Eagles like to fly high and are dang fast. It was hard to get a decent shot!! We drove through the Bald Eagle Preserve which is on the way into town, but we didn’t see any there. I guess we might have gone at the wrong time? That’s ok though, because we saw plenty of them around town!

We spent a few hours one morning hiking through the rain forest. Did you know that Alaska has a rain forest? We had it on good authority that bears rarely visited this area because there wasn’t a food source for them, but I was still a little nervous. I kept looking behind me just to make sure there wasn’t a bear sneaking up on us. We made lots of noise and had a really enjoyable morning hiking through a forest that looked like it was made for a movie! Fun side note…We bought two bear bells before we started our trip because people kept telling us it was a good way to avoid bears. When we got to Banff we told one of the Rangers we had them and she kind of smiled and got this look on her face before she told us that the Rangers like to call bear bells…dinner bells. The bears hear them so much they ignore them so when you’re out on the trail thinking you’re alerting the bears to your presence so they won’t get startled…you’re not. The bears will sometimes even follow the noise of the bells in hopes of food. Needless to say…we haven’t been using them. The trail we were following was very spongy between all of the roots. It was kind of fun to bounce on and see some of the closer trees kind of move. Everything was sooo green.

We hiked down to the beach and took in the view for a bit before heading back to the car. The beach wasn’t sand…it was rocks. We’d been told about Love Rocks at the RV park and so we all started looking for them while we were on the beach. Love Rocks are a grey rock with a white stipe down the middle. We found a few! 

We also went to the local fish cannery. It wasn’t in operation the day we went, but we got to walk around the outside of it a little. You can see a it in the photo above. After we visited the Cannery, we went back into town and ate at a little fish shack owned by the Cannery.

It was your basic food truck set up. Between the five of us, I think we got everything they offered. I had the halibut and the rockfish. Jerl and I both liked the rockfish the most. It was so flakey and buttery…yum! 

This raven…he was so sure we were going to feed him. He watched and danced and even tried to sneak up under the table and grab a fry from Nicholas. There were just as many (if not more) ravens in Haines as Bald Eagles, and boy, let me tell you…those birds are so noisy! And big!! They have so many different sounds. One morning our cat, Magnus, was laying on the chair watching a great big raven out the door and I swear to you, it sounded like that raven was laughing at him. I got up and looked out the door expecting to see a person there, but it was one of the ravens sitting up on the electric pole look right at Magnus. I don’t think Magnus was amused.

One of our favorite things to do was visit Alaska Rod’s. We ended up going in there all but one of the days we were in Haines. Rod and Rhonda were a wealth of information on the area and became fast friends. It didn’t hurt that we always got free samples of the fudge Rod makes. It’s hands down the best fudge we’ve ever had. I think we ended up buying a couple of pounds of it! It didn’t last long…I’m seriously thinking about having him ship us some! If you’re ever in Haines, Alaska Rod’s is a must stop!

On our quest to find some bears (from the safety of our car) we drove up to this river where they have this contraption that goes all the way across the river so that the fish are funneled into this one small opening and this guy stands there all day counting fish. Sound like fun? No? The river was really pretty…but we didn’t see a single bear.

And…of course there were the flowers…so many pretty ones, but here are my favorites. The flowers in the bottom right photo above are called Fireweed. Yep, they’re weeds…and yep, they were everywhere! But, they’re so stinkn’ pretty no one minds. This beauty in the bottom left photo above is another weed. Go ahead…laugh at my infatuation with weeds. It’s ok. I often chuckle to myself about how many flower/weed pictures I take. So, this one… you don’t want to touch. We’ve heard it called a few different names now. Wild Celery and Cow Parsnip are a couple. The oils on this plant cause severe burns when you get it on your skin and then the sun hits it. This stuff is everywhere too. I don’t know what the name of the one in the top photo above is. It’s a type of rose and we saw them in quite a few places in town. They smelled heavenly!

Nicholas got an impromptu guitar lesson in front of our RV one afternoon by one of our fellow campers! Not a bad view for a lesson! I think Nicholas was thrilled to talk and play with someone and I think the Guy was just as thrilled that someone so young wanted to spend time with him playing guitars.

We got a chip in our windshield on our way to Haines. We had a guy come out and fix it and now you can’t really even tell it was there. Several of the other campers in Haines told us horror stories of their woes on the Alaskan/Canadian roads. Bolts being sheered right off…drawers bouncing out of the cabinets…doors coming off hinges… There was a long list or really bad things they listed off. All things considered…we’ll take the little chip and count our blessings. In fact, there were quite a few of the other campers (the guy who gave Nicholas his guitar lesson was one of them) here who were waiting on a spot on the ferry back down to the lower 48. They refused to drive it. They were just done with it.

We ended up leaving Haines early so Jerl could work. We’re glad we visited Haines, but can’t really see ourselves going back.

Unless it’s to get some more fudge…and hit that food truck again!!

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound