Category: Keeping It Real

Aaaannnddd…We’re Back

Aaaannnddd…We’re Back

Hey Guys!! Aaaannnddd…we’re back in Houston! I can’t even begin to tell you how fast our Eastern Loop 2016 went or how good it feels to drive back onto Texas soil after having been gone for a whole year. A whole year, Guys!! This was our first full year loop and it was…well, it was kind of awesome. I’m not going to do our Year-In-Review post right now so stay tuned for that!

All of our loops start and end in Houston. That’s by design. We go back to Houston once a year to see our friends and get all of our yearly check-ups done. Even nomads have to go to the Dentist (waves and Dr, McGriff & staff), get their eyes checked (waves at everyone at Today’s Vision Sugarland), and they definitely have to get physicals done (waves at Dr. Kahn & all of the lovely Ladies). And, with two nomad cats, a good Veterinarian staff is a must (waves at SPAH)!

We spent two weeks getting our business done, visiting friends,

and hitting our favorite eateries. Y’all know we’re foodies and Houston is a foodie town. I’ve tried several other places in several other cities, but the best Indian Food is in Houston and this is my favorite place to indulge.

We spent the whole year missing Torchy’s Tacos. They have awesome tacos, but my favorite thing to get there is the queso. It’s…well…magical.

We didn’t just hit all of our favorite foodie spots, we also went to the Houston RV Show! No, we’re not looking for a new home. We wanted to see what new features were being added and get a few ideas for some upgrades we are wanting to make to our home-on-wheels. Check out this slick feature! This is an induction cook top that has been designed in a way that allows you to easily remove it and move it to another spot like the table or outside and still use it! We want to take out our gas cook top and replace it with something like this. Our current cook top uses propane and we’ve found that in some areas propane can be…well, a pain to find.

I got to spend the entire afternoon with one of my absolute favorite BFF (waves and Andrea). We always celebrate both of our birthdays while I’m back even though neither one of them is in February. She knows me so well…check out those truffles!

We’d just left Louisiana and all of that wonderful Cajun food right in the middle of crawfish season. We tried a place not far from where we were staying in Houston. It was ok. If we hadn’t just had the real thing, it would’ve been good.

During crawfish season all of the HEBs (Here Everything is Better) have live crawfish that you can get live or you can get them already boiled up in a spicy Cajun seasoning! We got 8 lbs of crawfish! We ended up with about 17 ounces of crawfish to use later in an Étouffée. Guys, we didn’t actually eat any of it as we shelled it. Maybe a few…for quality control purposes only. I promise! lol! We were a little surprised by how little we ended up with so we headed back and bought some crawfish in the freezer section that had already been cleaned up. And you know what? It was cheaper to buy them frozen! Oh well, lesson learned. I’ll post up my Étouffée later if y’all are interested.

Living in an RV, weather is always on our minds. We had a few close calls with tornadoes in Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana. We didn’t really expect any trouble in Houston. But we spent an hour or so up at the RV park office during a tornado warning one morning. Growing up in Tornado Alley, we know the power and devastation Mother Nature can cause so we’re always prepared to jump and run.

While we always enjoy our time in Houston…

we don’t enjoy the endless supply of traffic.

See y’all down the road!!

Beach Bummer

Beach Bummer

Hey Guys!! So…we stayed a week in Virginia Beach. A whole week to soak up all of the…errr….rain? Yup, it rained pretty much the entire week we were there. But! The show trip must go on!

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On the way to Virginia Beach we had a first for us. We drove the RV through a tunnel that went under the water!

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 It was kind of a long tunnel…and I’m not gonna lie…about half way through the tunnel I started worrying about what would happen if the tunnel sprung a leak. And then I started thinking about how if we were on the Walking Dead show, there would be tons of walkers in the tunnel. And right when panic started to make me get a little twitchy I saw the light at the end of the tunnel (literally) and we were exiting. I’m not sure I want to do another underwater tunnel with the RV again anytime soon.

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You are looking at the only time we saw sun while in the VA Beach area. This is the Cape Henry lighthouse which is located on an active military base. I’m laughing as I write this because we didn’t realize we were going to an active base. Total planning fail on my part. So, when we pulled up and had to have our car searched and there were some pretty strict rules as to where we could and could not go/take pics…well, it was a new experience! And to be honest…we all thought it was pretty cool! Everyone we interacted with were very nice and polite and we never got the feeling that we were intruding or anything.

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We stayed at a place called Holiday Tav-L-Park. This is what I thought we would end up getting. This is really a pretty basic kind of site.

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This is what we got. This was our site. We laughed about the difference. Kind of funny what $30 more per night will get you…grass, concrete, and cable. This Rv park was huge! It had four pools, mini-golf, and various playgrounds. We would actually stay there again and if we ever make it back to the VA Beach area we probably will. The lack of grass didn’t bother us and we never watch cable anyway.

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One of my HP friends lives in VA Beach and we got to meet up with her and her kiddos for dinner one night! *waves at friend* We had a great time meeting face-to-face for the first time while enjoying some tasty Mexican food! One of the neatest things about our #easternloop2016 has been seeing so many of my HP/FB friends. Our kiddos have been switching numbers and staying in touch too!

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We did make it to the famous Neptune statue on VA Beach! The rain even held off long enough for us to snap a picture and take a look at the beach!

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Virginia even gave us a rainbow on our last night there. We really enjoyed our time in Virginia and will visit the state again!

See y’all down the road!

#easternloop

#keepingitreal

Albany, NY

Albany, NY

Hey Guys! I’m behind on getting posts ready for you. I prefer to write the posts right after we have the experience so everything is fresh in my mind. Especially when it’s a State Capitol Building. We try to take the guided tours because they’re so interesting and informative…the problem with that is that…well, right now I am four State Capitol Buildings behind. SO…bear with me while I try to keep my facts straight.

We’ve been struggling with decent cell service/wifi at the RV parks we’re staying at. Right now, we’re actually in Main and while I have zero cell service (Come on Sprint! What’s up with the shoddy service up here?!) the park we’re staying at has excellent wifi!

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The New York State Capitol Building is in a tie for our top State Capitol Building! We loved it! Right off the bat you can see that it’s going to be different. It looks more like a big estate home or maybe a small castle.

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I love all of the different angles and lines here. There’s so much detail in every aspect of this building.

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Five floors and five architects. They kept firing their architect which drew out the construction. There are so many things I love about this building. Since we had a small tour group (us and another couple) the guide took us all the way up to the 5th floor! You can see our view in the photo above. The Assembly Staircase (fifth floor) is done in Moorish and Gothic styles and was finished in 1879.

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The skylight was removed in 1949 and restored in 2011.

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Construction lasted for more than a quarter of a century. In 1899 Governor Theodore Roosevelt declared the building done. It wasn’t actually done but, the cost had exceeded twenty-five million dollars which made the New York State Capitol Building more expensive than the U.S. Capitol.  When construction halted, there was still carving being done. So, when you walk through the building, you can see where they stopped. In the picture above you can see the line of edging left unfinished.

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It’s the Great Western Staircase, but they call it the Million Dollar Staircase. And yes, it really did cost a million dollars. This staircase is made of sandstone and carved after it was built. There were hundreds of carvers employed, working ten hour days carving the inside of the building. Not just this particular staircase, but all over the building.

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Corsehill sandstone was imported from Scotland because of the specific qualities it has which make it excellent for carving. In 1911 a huge fire discolored the sandstone. You can see the difference in colors in the photo above.  In 2000 they started restoration work on the building. Because most of the interior is made from sandstone it took a long time getting it clean. I don’t remember what year they finally finished it, but it wasn’t too long ago.

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The Capitol stone carvers created hundreds maybe even thousands of faces all throughout the building. There are famous faces like Abraham Lincoln, Walt Whitman, and Susan B. Anthony, but there are also many unidentified faces. Our guide told us they believe the carvers used everyone and anyone in their daily lives as a model for a face.

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Look close! Can you see it? In the photo above is the smallest carving in the building. It took them years to find. Apparently, one of the carvers was fired and snuck back in the building one night and carved this little devil.

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So, what do you think? It’s a gorgeous building. We could have wandered around for hours looking at everything. Are you wondering where the dome picture is? There’s not one. There’s not a rotunda either. And it’s still sitting firmly in a top slot on our list. They were actually going to have a rotunda and a “dome”, but they ran out of time. I’m not going to tell you how many pictures I took of this building. Don’t even ask. If you ever get a chance to visit the New York State Capitol Building, do it. You won’t regret it.

We didn’t really do anything else at this stop.

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We did find a Five Guys that offers shakes! Mind…blown… That was a new thing for us. I guess this particular location has had shakes for a year or so.

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The boys took over our room and played some board games. I just realized, y’all haven’t seen our home…I should do a photo tour for you.

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And…we made some new friends. We’ll be stopping in Alabama to visit our new friends toward the end of this loop. *waves at the Level Family*

See y’all down the road!!

#easternloop2016

A Year In Review

A Year In Review

Guys! It’s been one year already!! Can you believe it? We thought it might be fun to look back at our year and talk about some of our favorites and share with you some of the things we’ve learned.

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This photo was taken the day we left my parents’ house in 2015.

We left on Mother’s Day 2015 (sorry mom). We were full of all kinds of emotions, questions, and worries as we drove off that day. Most people assume we already had our RV when we decided to switch to a full-time RV life and that we knew what we were doing. We didn’t. We jumped in with both feet and hoped for the best. Now, don’t get me wrong…we’d totally planned everything (I’m a planner), but it’s hard to really know what you’re going to be facing when you’ve never had any experience with something. By the time we reached Nebraska (our second state) we were pretty certain we’d made the right decision.

Let’s start with some of our favorites!

We all agree that Alaska is our favorite state.

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Waterfalls, glaciers, ice fields, and rainforests…. Alaska is pretty spectacular!

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Our favorite experience so far is the day cruise we took to explore the Kenai Fjords National Park in Seward, Alaska.

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And…it may be no big surprise that our favorite National Park is Denali National Park in Alaska. It was so fantastic…we’ve been trying to decide when we can go back since we left.

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Our favorite State Park is Makoshika in Montana with the unforgettable gumbo incident. If you don’t know about it or want to read about it again, you can find our post on Makoshika here. We’re looking forward to a time when we can go back to Makoshika to finish a very cool hike we had to turn back on while we were there.

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What you’re looking at is our favorite burrito. Y’all know we’re foodies…we’ve got our favorites…and this, my friends, is the best burrito we’ve ever had. It was so good we drove 45 minutes one way…twice just to get it. This is the Green Mix Burro, Enchilada Style from The Burger House in Miami, AZ. We will go back to Miami, AZ just to get this burrito. Yep, it’s really that good!

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Our favorite grocery store is still HEB. Here Everything really is Better. We’ve been to a lot of grocery stores and we’ve only found two other grocery store companies that even come close.

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I know y’all are wondering (since we talk about burgers all the time) what our favorite burger is. Tucker’s Onion Burger in Oklahoma City, OK is the best all around burger we’ve found so far! It has all of the elements a good burger should have!! Now, if we’re talking about a green chili burger…we would have to go with Rockin’ BZ Burgers in Alamogordo, NM!

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7th Ranch RV Park in Garryowen, MT is our favorite RV park for numerous reasons. We like it so much we did a post on it! You can find it here and read all about why it’s still in our number one spot!

We have quite a few favorites from over the past year, but these are the only ones all five of us agree on. If y’all are curious about any of our other favorites give us a shout and we’ll tell ya!!

We’ve learned a lot over this past year. Here’s a small list of some of the things we’ve learned:

1. Not all grocery stores are created equally. I’ll be the first to admit that we were super spoiled by our HEB in Texas, but we had no idea how spoiled we really were. It didn’t take long to come to the harsh realization that we were going to have to say goodbye to some of our favorite items and brands. We never really know what we’ll find in a grocery store when we walk in and it’s turned into one of my favorite things about moving around. It’s always interesting to see different brands and regional items and to even find a few new favorites. Sometimes tiny grocery store will have a great selection like the Cottonwood General Store in Terlingua, Tx and sometimes we struggle to find anything we would eat in one of the well known grocery store chains (like the Piggly Wiggly). One of my favorite isles to peruse is the ice cream isle. Not only do brands carry different flavors per region, but some of the basic flavors have different names. I love trying all of the different ice cream brands and comparing them! It’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it…right?

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2. Not all gas stations are big rig friendly even when they have an RV Island. Gas stations…we visit a lot of gas stations. Some are set up so poorly we just drive on by and pity the poor sucker who pulled in and can’t figure out how to get out. We can say that because we’ve been-there-done-that. When we were just starting out, gas stations were a source of anxiety for me… not that I was the one driving…I don’t drive the RV…it’s best for everyone. There have been times that we’ve had to back up, wait for other cars to move, and block the entrance/exit because we were at the RV Island getting gas. We were where we were supposed to be, but the gas station wasn’t laid out with any kind of forethought to the size and turning radius of a big rig. Jerl has become an expert at gas station navigation. I still get a little nervous sometimes, but he’s as cool as a cucumber now.

3. You can’t find good ethnic food everywhere. We were in Montana the first time we found a Mexican restaurant we wanted to try. It smelled good, but when they set the salsa down it had cabbage in it and looked like it was a soup. We should have just left then and there. Seriously. The meal just went downhill from that point. We left realizing that it was going to be a very long time before we would be able to find anything remotely like the kind of Mexican food we like. But it’s not just Mexican food… last summer (2015) while we were in Alaska, Mr. Man turned 15. We always let the boys pick out where they want to eat for their birthdays and Mr. Man chose the only Asian place in Valdez. I left with a mild strain of food poisoning. It would have been ok if the food had been worth it, but it really wasn’t. Live and learn. My favorite ethnic food is Indian food. So far, I haven’t even tried to get it anywhere but back home in Houston, TX.

4. When Google Maps says your destination is five hours away, it’s more like seven hours. We learned this the hard way while traveling though Canada to get to Alaska. We had some twelve and fourteen hour drive days. What The Googles doesn’t take in to consideration is that when you’re driving an RV you probably won’t be going the posted speed limit…at least not very often…and not if you don’t want to tear up your rig. We still compare all roads to the ALCAN (the road to Alaska). There were times when we were going ten miles per hour and that was still too fast. We’ve learned you have to slow down when driving an RV…and really, that’s kind of the point of driving an RV…to slow down and enjoy the journey. We have learned to add an hour for every three hours The Googles has predicted our travel time to be.

5. Sometimes the GPS looses its little electronic mind. It’s one thing when the GPS doesn’t know how to pronounce something. We all laugh and make jokes, but when the GPS takes it’s revenge and tells us to go down roads that are only meant for high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles….well, that’s not so funny.  The first time this happened we were driving down the Cassiar on our way back from Alaska. The GPS map for that region hadn’t been updated in a long time so it didn’t know that two parts of the Cassiar had been connected. Our GPS was trying to route us around in a way that added an entire day to our trip. Luckily, we had done our research and knew what way to go. The next time the GPS screwed up we were in Arizona heading to the Lost Dutchman State Park. We happily followed our trusty GPS as it told us to turn down a questionable dirt road where we almost got stuck. This road rivaled some of the worst parts of the ALCAN. We swerved around potholes the size of our car and big mounds of trash that someone had piled up in the road. We held our breath a few times, but we made it in once piece only to find out that there was a wonderfully smooth highway we could have taken to get to the Lost Dutchman State Park instead. The first time we thought it was just a mapping glich…an update that needed to happen…the second time we realized that our GPS has a tendency to loose it’s little electronic mind. That second time we learned to always trust our gut. If a road seems shady, find a different way. A different time, while we were driving near the old Route 66 our GPS decided to have us turn off of a perfectly fine highway and take us down the original 66 highway that hadn’t been maintained in way too long and was more like something you would expect to see a horse drawn wagon on. After our first incident we were on to the GPS’ ways and had more sense than to actually drive down it. We got back on the highway and let the GPS sort it’self out. We have a love hate relationship with our GPS.

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The road our GPS lead us down to get to the Lost Dutchman State Park

6. Always make sure you have the memory card in your camera. Funny story…One evening while we were in Valdez we were walking around down by the harbor and there was a sea otter eating and playing right by the docks. It was soooo close! And, of course, I had my trusty camera so I whipped it out and got some ah-maze-ing shots. Or at least I think they were amazing. I’d been editing pictures earlier that day and had forgotten to put my memory card back in the camera. I didn’t know this while I was snapping pictures. My camera just let me shoot away completely unaware that I wasn’t getting anything. I was crushed when I went to edit pics again the next day and all those wonderful pics I had taken were nowhere to be found. Nowhere. I thought I’d lost my mind…I mean…I distinctly remembered standing there taking some once-in-a-lifetime shots. So…where the heck were they. I guess I was too distracted. I learned a valuable, but painful lesson that day. Always check your gear before you leave. Always.

7. Not all RV parks are created equally. It always amazes me when we pull into an RV park and it doesn’t look like the pictures on their website lead you to believe. Or, when we go to check in and all of a sudden there are tons of small hidden fees they didn’t tell us about beforehand. Or, when you walk into the park bathroom and you back out because you’re afraid to turn your back to the room for fear something will reach out of the dark corners and you’ll never be heard from again. There are some parks that we feel dirty just pulling into. We pulled into this place in Fox, Alaska and we kind of just looked at each other for a minute. To say this place was rundown would be putting it nicely. Weeds were everywhere, the path to the sites had potholes the size of a small car, and the owner told us not to hook the water up to the RV because it had a bit of rust in it. The water looked like chocolate milk and we later found out was filled with arsenic. And then there was the goat…it was the neighbor’s goat. The goat was in rut and the owner of the RV park was positive that the goat had gotten into its owner’s stash and was high. Well, for some reason the goat thought the boys were a threat and became very aggressive toward them. We almost had goat curry that night. On the flip-side…there are some absolutely awesome parks out there. We’ve learned to thoroughly research the parks we go to.

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The goat that was almost curry.

8. We didn’t really need 1/2 of the stuff we thought we would. We’d never been camping in our RV…we’d never been on a trip in it anywhere so, when I was trying to downsize our three bedroom house to fit in our 38′ RV…well, I didn’t have a clue what we would really need. I crammed everything that would fit in the RV into the various storage spaces. Just in case. We’ve spent this first year lightening our load as we’ve realized we don’t need ten pairs of pants each or fifteen different shirts. That it’s not necessary to have two complete sets of dishes. We’re learning how to live a minimalist lifestyle. It’s been difficult. We go to all of these amazing places and I see all of these souvenir-ish items that I would love to have…but we don’t have room. Can you imagine how cluttered the RV would be if we bought every cool item we found? We got rid of a bunch of stuff through the year then made a healthy deposit to our storage unit while we were back in Texas.

9. Gas station food isn’t really that bad.  I know, I know…I can hear y’all already…you feed your kids gas station food?!?! Well, yes. Yes, we do. On move days we tend to get up and go so when we stop for gas, we let the boys go in and pick out something for breakfast. They usually go for the donuts or fried pies or something along those lines. But sometimes we come across a gas station that has breakfast sausages and sandwiches. Littlest had pizza the other day. Yep, pizza for breakfast. Let the hate comments begin. We don’t allow them to have these things all the time. These are their treat breakfasts. And then there are the times where we spend the entire day driving and when we pull in to fill up the tank, we fill up the kid’s tanks too.  It’s a rare occurrence, but it does happen. Some gas stations have actual food. We’ve found some pretty good stuff.

10. Pay attention to the grey tank. This is probably one of the most important things we’ve learned this year. The grey tank is the tank all of the water we use when we do dishes, brush our teeth, shower, do laundry, and wash our hands goes into. It can fill up fast. This might be a good time to tell you we’ve got two full bathrooms. And cats. We have two cats. We keep the cat’s litter box in one of the showers so we don’t have to move it around all the time and it’s pretty contained. Well, guess where the grey tank water backs up to when it gets full. Yup. The shower. One day I noticed that Magnus (one of our cats) was walking around really wet and that he kept going back into the bathroom with his litter box. Now, this cat loves to play in water and can turn on the faucet so I thought he’d been playing in the sink again. But, when I went back to check on him…well, he was playing in water…the grey tank water that had backed up into the shower where the litter box is. It took me hours to clean and sanitize everything. Gross.

We’ve got one entire year under our belt and we’ve visited 18 states so far, but only 17 State Capitol Buildings (extra points for anyone who can tell me what State Capitol we missed) and we’ve stayed at 55 RV Parks. We’ve traveled a lot of miles…I don’t know the exact mile count…but it’s up there and we’re really just starting our adventure.

For our second year we’re hitting the eastern states. We’re working our way up to Maine and then we’ll make our way down to Florida before heading back to Texas to do all of our yearly stuff. I’ll be using the hashtag #easternloop2016 this year.

There’s a growing number of families who full-time RV, but we’re still in the minority. We’re usually the youngest people in the parks we stay in and as you can imagine…people are very curious about us. We get asked quite a few questions so I thought I would start a new series of posts called FAQs. I’ll answer all of the usual questions we get and if y’all have any questions you’d like to throw in the lineup just let me know!

Well, that’s all for now!

See y’all down the road!

Home For A Visit

Home For A Visit

We spent five wonderful weeks back in our hometown in Missouri.

It was so great spending some time with

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 family and

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friends!! One of the hardest things about living a nomadic life is being away from family and friends for long periods of time so we all took the opportunity to spend as much time as possible reconnecting with as many as we could. Unfortunately, time seems to fly and we didn’t get to spend time with everyone we wanted to.

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The Dude turned 13 while we were back home. We now have two teenagers. Two. In an RV. This year should definitely be interesting!

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The boys all took advantage of the toys at my parents’ house and spent quite a bit of time outside…when it wasn’t raining.

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It wasn’t all fun and play though. We had several projects we wanted to get done. It’s amazing how different what you think you’re going to need vs. what you really need while living in an RV is.

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And…we, of course, had to hit up our favorite eateries!

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It kind of looks like a mess, but it is so stinkin’ good!! Anything that has mac-n-cheese, prime rib chili, cheese, and garlic ailoi on top of fries…yes please!

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I think we had Shake’s several times a week…

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I might need a twelve step program when it comes to Shake’s.

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I can’t leave out all of the pretty flowers!

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One of the best things about Spring…

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would be all of the flowers!!

See y’all down the road!!

#homeiswheretheheartis

Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon National Park

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The Grand Canyon measures 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide and more than one mile deep. That’s big. We spent a week exploring what Theodore Roosevelt declared as “the one great sight which every American should see.”

The Grand Canyon is split in to the North Rim and the South Rim. We only visited the South Rim on this visit.

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Before we get into what we did, let me explain how the GCNP is laid out. The GCNP South Rim is basically split up into two parts. On the east side, you have the Desert View Drive that you can use your own vehicle to get around (except for Yaki Point and the South Kaibab Trailhead). The west side is where you’ll find the Village, Market Plaza, the Visitor Center and some campgrounds and is mainly navigable by shuttle bus. There are a few places you can drive in the Village and Market Plaza, but Hermit Road is shuttle bus only. You can get the gist of it in the map above.

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Our first day at the GCNP we decided to check out the east side of the park and the Desert View Drive where we headed out to the Desert View Watchtower. It was built in 1932 and looks old, but it was designed to look that way so it would add to the ambiance of the Grand Canyon experience.

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The view off of the balcony of the Watchtower gives you a great view of the Colorado River snaking it’s way through the canyon.

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There’s really not a bad view anywhere here. This is at one of the other stops on Desert View Dr. I don’t remember which one…they all kind of run together after a while.

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This is one of my favorite shots because you can see the Colorado River and if you look very carefully, you can see the Desert View Watchtower on the right hand side toward the top of the cliff.

IMGP7593 I really love the colors here.

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We’re going to let y’all in on a secret place not many people know about. Ok, it’s not really a secret…but not many people know about it. This is the Grandview Watchtower. It’s not in the GCNP but it’s right on the edge in the Kiabab National Forest. We went here right at sunset and had the whole place to ourselves.

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The view was spectacular. We could see some of the canyon, but the coolest part was the way the forest stretched out forever.

On the west side of the park it’s best if you arrive early and secure a parking spot then utilize the free shuttle buses for the rest of the day. We spent one day and hit everything we wanted on the west side.

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You can expect more great views. It’s harder to catch a glimpse of the Colorado River on the east side. There are helicopters all over the place. You might even find one in the picture above, if you look close enough. It kind of gives you some perspective on how big the Grand Canyon is.

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We rode the shuttle all the way to Hermits Rest and the end of the road.

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Inside the Hermits Rest building you’ll find a curio shop along with a snack shop. This is also where you’ll find the Hermit Trailhead. It’s one of the steepest, most strenuous trails and they warn everyone that it will take around nine hours to make the seven mile hike…if you’re in decent shape. We walked around the area and took in the views.

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Just outside of the Yavapai Point Geology Museum, you can actually see one of only two bridges that cross the Colorado River in GCNP for the hikers who brave the trails. You can also see Phantom Ranch. In the picture above, on the right side you can see the bridge and then on the left side in that green spot, is the Phantom Ranch. What is Phantom Ranch? Well, it’s a place for hikers to stay overnight on the canyon floor in a lodge. You can get hot, fresh food and a shower before sleeping in an actual bed. You can, of course, bring your own tent and food.

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You can see the Colorado River from a couple of places on the east side.

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One of the neatest places you’ll find on the east side is The Lookout. It was built right on the side of the canyon and offers a great view.

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You can also stay in the nearby town of Williams, AZ and ride the train into the park. For almost a quarter of a century, the railroad provided the most comfortable way to get to the Grand Canyon. Built in 1901, the Grand Canyon Railroad Depot is still in use today and is right in the middle of the Village where passengers can find lodging and shuttle buses.

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Did you know there’s a cemetery at the GCNP? I didn’t. We heard about it from one of the shuttle bus drivers and went to check it out.

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I thought there would only be really old graves like the one in the picture above. Rustic and old. But there were some newer graves too. We walked through to look at some of the more unique tombstones.

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There are five hiking trails at the South Rim. Only five. Now, of these five, four are considered to be strenuous and two of those four are so long they warn you about trying to do the trail all in one day.  The South Kaibab and the Bright Angel trails are the two trails that will take you all the way into the canyon to the river.  For us, hiking some of the trails in a park is kind of a must so, we hiked part of three of the trails. More than 250 people are rescued from the canyon each year because they over estimate how in shape they are and under estimate how long it will take them to hike back out of the canyon. If you decide to hike there, know your limits and plan accordingly.
IMGP7690The first trail we hiked was the South Kiabab Trail. We did this one in the afternoon when it was the hottest part of the day, but that’s when we had time to do it and we didn’t want to miss out.

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Pretty early on the trail we found this sign. We already knew mules used the trail from the…smell. Some parts of the trail were worse than others. The boys thought they were going to pass out from the stench of all of the scat left behind by the mules. It was pretty ripe.

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South Kiabab Trail is the most direct route to the canyon floor. Do you know what that means? It’s steep and strenuous. For me this trail was harder than Bright Angel because of the way the trail was laid out with all of these steep “steps”. You can see a few of the more gradual steps in the picture above.

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Here’s another shot of all of the “steps”.

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To be fair…the trail wasn’t all like that. Some of it was nice and smooth with a more gradual incline.

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We only went to Ooh-Aah Point which is about a two mile round trip hike.  At the point you can walk out onto some rocks to get to the view.

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It was a great view. It only took us about a half an hour to get there and it was worth the effort.

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It took us an hour to get back out of the canyon. Can you spot the trail in the picture above? That cliff is the way out.

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Here, let me zoom in for you. Can you see the tiny people walking up the side of the cliff now?

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The other big hike we did was Bright Angel Trail. We did this one early in the morning when it was still mostly in shade and the temps were still low.

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There are two tunnels on Bright Angel. This one is the upper tunnel.

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And this one is the lower tunnel. This is as far as we went on Bright Angel. It made for about a two mile round trip hike.

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Here’s the view from the lower tunnel.

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You could see quite a bit of the trail from the lower tunnel. It was mostly in the shade and was more of a smooth, gradual decent.

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We kept marveling at the way the trees grew out of the side of the canyon wall. Littlest took this shot on the way back up the Bright Angel Trail.

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We were racing the sun to get out of the canyon. We didn’t have too much sun. We made better time on this trail. I think it only took us a little over an hour to do it. I can see why it’s the Grand Canyon’s most popular trail. We would have liked to have been able to hike more of Bright Angel, but we had an extremely full day planned and we were running out of time to get everything done.

The third trail we hiked was some of the Rim Trail. This trail will take you from the Grand Canyon Village all the way to Hermit’s Rest and is the South Rim’s only above-rim hiking trail. We hiked this trail between Hopi point and Mohave Point (just shy of a mile) instead of waiting for the shuttle bus. It was a nice flat-ish hike that stayed right by the canyon edge. We enjoyed it and if we’d had another full day to spend at the GCNP we would’ve hiked some more of the rim trail.

We also did an Astronomy Ranger Walk. It was one of my favorite things we did while at the GCNP. We met Ranger Mike in front of the Visitor Center at 8PM and he took us on an hour long walk along the rim of the canyon where we saw the brightest, best Milky Way we’ve ever seen. We learned about stars and planets and we got to hear some very cool stories about the park from a Ranger who’s worked there for over twenty years. Ranger Mike had the best laser pointer I’ve ever seen. All of the boys (all four of them) immediately wanted a laser pointer like Ranger Mike’s.

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The Colorado River looked very different on the east side than the west side. Above you can see the pretty blue water of the east side.

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And…here’s the murky, muddy water of the west side. Big difference, right?

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This was the busiest park we’ve been to so far. There were tons of people everywhere. And 90% of them weren’t speaking English. Maybe that’s just an off season thing?

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So many of the people we saw were climbing out as far as they could to the edge of the canyon for a selfie. I’m really surprised we didn’t see anyone fall.

Are you wondering where the pictures of the flowers are? Y’all know how I am about flowers…

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I realize they’re weeds, but I couldn’t pass up the bright purple.

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These are Mexican Cliffroses.

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The Mexican Cliffrose does something very different when it goes to seed. Check out those feathery seeds! So cool!

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Yup, it’s another weed, but I really liked the bright pink of the bud with the brown and all of those thorns.

We saw tons of wildlife at GCNP. The Dude (our middle son) is going to start doing Wildlife Watch posts so I’ll let him tell you about the wildlife we saw.

The boys ended up with the GCNP badge, a Paleontology badge, and an Astronomy patch.

I like to keep it real for y’all so I’m going to be very honest here. The Grand Canyon National Park will probably never be on my top ten list of National Parks. It was big…it had nice views…but it was a lot of the same view for me. We felt like we couldn’t really immerse ourselves in the park. Maybe it was all the hype…maybe we were expecting more? It’s on pretty much everyone’s bucket list for a reason and you should go see it at least once. We do plan on visiting the North Rim eventually. We enjoyed the view, but if we ever go back it will be to hike into the canyon and stay overnight at Phantom Ranch before hiking out.

See y’all down the road!

Fairbanks, AK – The Good, The Bad, & The…Weird

Fairbanks, AK – The Good, The Bad, & The…Weird

We started our Fairbanks visit off on…well, not the best foot. Y’all know I’m a planner. When we decided to do Alaska this summer, I mapped out and plotted the entire trip. I researched each place we were going to stay and then we made reservations. When I planned the Fairbanks portion of our trip (the last place we would stay in Alaska), I found an RV park called Northern Moosed. I couldn’t really find anything about it other than it was in The Milepost…so we took a chance on it. According to The Milepost, Northern Moosed its the northern most full-service RV park in Alaska.

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We were really excited to stay here and had hoped to see some of the moose that supposedly roam through the camp daily.

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When we pulled in I had a feeling we should just turn around and get out of there. It was…rustic, but hey…it’s Alaska, right? Camping is supposed to be rustic? I thought it would get better when we went inside to register, but as the Camp Host kept telling us about the place, that little feeling of unease kept growing. We’d been told it was full service…that we would have full hookups. But, as it turned out, we wouldn’t want to use the water there….it was full of rust. Sigh. Well shoot. We went ahead and pulled in and found a place. You can see in the picture above, that there were random items strewn about. FYI…rustic does not mean trashy.

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The site we settled on was the best of the lot. We had our pick. That was another red flag…but it was late in the season…maybe the main season was over? After we got set up and Jerl saw just how bad the water was we decided we would have to get some extra filters or just move. We spent our first afternoon in Fairbanks trying to figure out what the best course of action would be. After hitting the Lowes and Home Depot and talking with some locals (who told us all the water in the area was unusable due to arsenic) we decided to move to a different park. One that was on city water that had been cleaned and was totally drinkable.

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The next morning, we started packing up. Jerl had talked to the owner of Northern Moosed and told her we would have to move due to lack of phone service (which happened to be true) and they gave us a full refund (which was super nice and we weren’t really expecting). While we were packing up and trying to get the heck out of Camp Weirdo, the goat you see in the photo above decided to terrorize us all. He was extremely, aggressively charging at the boys. He was trying to get into the RV. What’s sad is we could tell this place had once been someplace very cool to stay.

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There were signs that someone actually put some time and effort into making Northern Moosed a good place. It’s been with the current owners for six years and it’s obvious to us that they’ve done nothing to it. The Camp Host was pretty sure the goat was from her neighbor (who she’s convinced is a crack addict). The RV park we moved to was wonderful! It was very clean and kept. We could use the water. And most importantly…there weren’t any crazy goats trying to kill us!! The whole Northern Moosed experience was just…bad.

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We went to two museums while in Fairbanks. The first one we went to was actually free. It was at the Fairbanks Visitor & Cultural Center.

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The museum inside was great. It had some great displays all about the Alaskan’s heritage and history.

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The bead work was my favorite.

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Here’s another shot of the amazing bead work. The beads they use are called seed beads and are tiny.

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While the inside of the museum was really interesting, I preferred all the stuff outside. There were five different murals around the grounds all based on Native art techniques. This one was based on a basket weave.

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There was a small garden to demonstrate how ridiculously big the veggies get in Alaska. The cabbages above were absolutely huge!

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And, of course, the flowers…

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With all the Alaskan sunshine, the flowers were out of control.

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I took more pictures of flowers than I did the displays inside the museum. I won’t post all of them up…there are too many.

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There was an arch made of moose and caribou sheds. I have a friend back in Texas (you know who you are) who needs to do this on her ranch!

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The boys earned another badge at this museum. In the photo above, you can see them getting sworn in. Alex got to wear an actual Ranger hat. He was really excited about that.

The second museum we went to was at the University of Alaska.

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The Museum of the North was one of the best museums we’ve been to.

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This is the first museum we’ve been to that had hands on things for the boys to do (that wasn’t a kids museum).

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The main exhibit was sectioned off into the sections of Alaska and had items specific to the section of Alaska it dealt with.

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The weaving techniques were quite impressive.

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There was even equipment out for the kids to use. At this station, you could use a microscope to check out some fossils.

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Some of the interaction stations allowed the boys to feel actual bones and fur or what a mastodon tooth feels like. My only issue with this museum is that the lighting was really dim. It was hard to see some things and taking pictures was a challenge for a newb like me.

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Pioneer Park was a big disappointment for us. We had heard about it from several people and we’d seen advertisements for it in several places so we had high hopes for it. Admission is free, but anything you want to do inside you have to pay for. That’s fine. Gotta pay the bills somehow, right? But, the park is very rundown.

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There were some neat displays. No rides.

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A small portion of the park looks like a small pioneer village with shops in a few of the buildings. The shops were…odd. Mostly handmade items or things that looked like leftovers from the year before. We didn’t stay long. It was…weird.

I’m going to do Fairbanks in two parts so stay tuned for Fairbanks part two!!

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

#keepingitreal

Seward, AK

Seward, AK

We spent two weeks in the Seward area, using it as our basecamp for all the other places we wanted to visit on the Kenai Peninsula.

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We really enjoyed Seward! It was pretty small and definitely had plenty of touristy stuff, but it had a nice balance of non-touristy stuff too.IMGP3902

There was a cute little boardwalk along the harbor consisting of all the tours and gift shops.

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Out of all of the small-town coastal harbors we’ve seen in Alaska, Seward is my favorite. It was super clean, the views were amazing, and there were boats of all sizes.

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Seward is located on the shore of Resurrection Bay.

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We went on a scenic drive and ended up on the other side of the bay from Seward. You can see it in the photo above. There were a ton of people fishing right along the coast there…right by the waste water factory…there was a sign that warned against eating the fish raw…we didn’t fish there.

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Seward is also the starting point (one of them) for the Iditarod. We found the Mile 0 marker for it.

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There were over 20 murals all over town.

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The mural above was across the street from the Alaska SeaLife Center. We spent an afternoon there getting up close with some of the animals found in the local waters.

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At the Alaska SeaLife Center, the habitats were large enough to keep the animals happy, the animals looked healthy and well cared for, and we could get really close to all of them, safely.

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The Center was crowded, but it was big enough that you didn’t feel like you were tripping over people all the time. The Harbor Seals were so cute and playful!

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Right across from the seals were the Sea Lions…who had a very different idea of how to spend the day.

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There was a whole room for birds that you could walk into. The birds were free to fly about the room…we could have reached out and touched them they were so close! There were several different species in the room, but my favorite was the Horned Puffin. These little birds are amazing! Did you know, puffins can dive down to 300 feet in the water?

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Here’s one in action! Sorry about the blur…they’re wicked fast!

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There was a touch pool. We were encouraged to touch several different types of sealife while learning all about what we were touching.

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Mr. Man had no trouble with reaching in and touching everything. The two little boys needed some persuasion.

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I think the favorite was the sea anemone that would hug your finger if you put in near it the right way.

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There was a great view of Resurrection Bay.

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We didn’t get to touch this one, but I thought it was so pretty.

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Can you spot the fish in the photo above? I would not want to pull one of those out of the water on my fishing line! I would suggest going to the Alaska SeaLife Center and the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center and skipping the Alaska Zoo. I really hate to say that…but it’s so true.

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The only place we ate at in Seward was Red’s Burgers. We ate there twice. You place your order in the building and then go sit in the school bus to eat.

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The owners had converted the inside of the bus to booths.

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It was different and fun. The boys thought it was so cool to be sitting on a school bus eating.

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I got the garlic burger with fires. The chef wasn’t playing around with the garlic. I thought there would be some garlic worked into the burger patty, but there was about a quarter cup of minced garlic on top of that patty! That’s a lot of garlic. I wish I’d known that before I ordered the garlic fries too. It’s a good thing everyone else had garlic fries with their burgers…

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The first time we went there, the owner was working the window and it was near closing time. We scored two free mystery cups. What are mystery cups? They are magical mixtures of the ice cream flavors Red’s made through the day. At the end of each batch of ice cream they empty the containers into cups and just layer it up until the cup is full. We had pineapple and strawberry in the cup above. The second time we went we ended up with banana, strawberry, and cookies & cream! So good and only $3!

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This is the Reds #1 Burger. It has caramelized maple bacon, grilled ham, onions and mushrooms, jalapenos, cheddar and swiss on it. And it was huge. Mr. Man got this one and ate it all plus his fries.

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These are the chili cheese fries! Super good! Now, I mentioned we ate there twice…the first time we ate there it was so amazingly good we couldn’t’ stop talking about it and decided we had to eat there again before we left. We didn’t even contemplate eating anywhere else. It was that tasty. But, the second time…I don’t know…something was off. Maybe they were having an off night? The burgers tasted freezer burnt. It was weird.

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We did a very short, very steep hike on the Jeep Trail in Seward. We didn’t go all the way up the trail because we were still recovering from the Harding Icefield fiasco.

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It’s hard to tell in the pictures…but you’re looking at a 40 to 50 percent grade there.

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The Seward area is considered to be in the rainforest section of the Kenai Peninsula. The plants are huge and there’s moss everywhere. Everything is so…green.

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Pretty flower, right?

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Watch out, it’ll bite you! What is it with Alaska? If the wildlife doesn’t get you, the plant life will!!

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We only hiked maybe a quarter of a mile to this waterfall and then headed back down.

So, there you have it! This completes our time on the Kenai Peninsula! We enjoyed every minute of it and had the most amazing weather while we were there.

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

#keepingitreal

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park

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Kenai Fjords National park is 607,805 acres of unspoiled wilderness on the southeast coast of Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. There are three ways you can visit the park in Seward: 1. Take a cruise, 2. Go to the visitor center in downtown Seward and do a Ranger Walk (the Ranger Walk isn’t technically in the NP), and 3. Go to the Exit Glacier portion of the park (this is the only part of the park you can drive to). We did all three of these things! I posted about the cruise in a separate post because it would have made this post too long.

We did our Ranger Walk on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.

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The Ranger Walk is only offered on Sunday afternoon and is geared toward kids. Our ranger was a college student working on her Master’s degree in Zoology. It was at this point, our 15 year old decided maybe rangers weren’t all that bad. ;-P

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The boys had a great time walking along the shore line learning about glaciers and fjords and what kinds of things Rangers do. They also earned their Fjords Ranger Patch!

We went to the Exit Glacier portion of the park twice.

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The first time we went we did the easy one mile hike to the Exit Glacier viewing area.

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The boys did the Explorer Packs on this visit. The NP lets you check out a backpack that has all kinds of activities you can choose from. Alex kept track of water temperature in different places during the hike and Nicholas identified several plants and trees. This got them the Glacier Patch!

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The trail was a great path with stairs. This was our first glimpse of the glacier while on the hike.

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This is as close to Exit Glacier that you can get. They’ve got it all roped off.

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We saw this little guy on the way back down. He’s a red backed vole. He was amazingly not afraid of us. I walked right by him on the path.

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Here’s a picture of the glacier washout. All of the water running off the glacier runs through there. People camp out there too. I wouldn’t. It’s all rocky and prone to high water. That just doesn’t sound like a good time to me.

Now, I like to keep it real for you so I’m going to tell you about the hardest hike we’ve made on this trip so far. And boy is it a doozy.

The second time we went to the Exit Glacier area we decided to do the Harding Icefield Trail. We planned ahead and brought our hike packs with water and snacks…we even brought a couple of jackets because on prior hikes we’d run into rain and cold on top of the mountain. Remember Whistler Mountain in the Oh Canada post? This hike is an eight and a half mile (round trip) hike. It gains 1,000 feet of height per mile on the way up.

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It started off great!! A gentle upward hike through the forest to the trail board where you’re supposed to check in and out so the park can keep track of everyone. The up started right after the trail board. It was still pretty gentle. We’ve decided the NP was trying to lull us into a false sense of security.

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We would hike a while then stop and rest a few minutes. The little boys decided to do the Explorers workbook (which is meant for 13+ years) this time so they could get all four of the available badges offered at this NP. They would work on it during our breaks.

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Everyone was still feeling pretty good about the hike here. We’d gone maybe a mile…but we thought we’d gone farther than that.

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The views were amazing. We would huff and puff up to a flat-ish place and look up and see things like what’s in the photo above. When they said the trail gains 1,000 feet every mile, they weren’t joking. Right around here we got to a place in the hike that had a trail marker that told us we still had over two miles left in the hike. We were really feeling it. We were hot, our legs were wobbly, and the trail was more advanced than what we had ever hiked before.

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We talked to some people coming down the trail and they assured us that the hard part was almost over. If we could just make it up the switchbacks, we’d be home free…the trail would flatten out. So, we pushed on after taking in the great view.

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The views during this entire hike were breathtaking. It’s hard to be in a bad mood when you’re surrounded by the wild beauty of Alaska. It was during the switchbacks that Jerl’s legs started cramping up and we all started to really feel the burn. If you work out, think about a leg day that you pushed yourself way too hard…that’s where we were and we still had about 2 more miles of up to go. Any normal family would have called it quits and gone back down while they could still move. Not us though. Oh, no…we kept getting told how we were soooo close and how if we made it up to this certain point it all flattens out. We didn’t’ want to wimp out so close to the finish.

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We met up with this marmot. He chirped and chattered at us the whole time we shuffled by him. He was super cute!

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We finally made it past the switchbacks and all of the huge rocks you have to get up and over. They put them cleverly on the path to act as steps…I’m sure giants have no trouble with them. By this point I was really ready to just head down. The boys were miserable, I was beyond done, and Jerl was having issues with his legs. But…we thought maybe we’d finally reached the promised “flattened out” area. We couldn’t stop now! Right?

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This is also where the landscape changed. We’d hiked up past all of the trees and shrubbery to where it’s just rock and snow. I love the way the melting snow made little waterfalls. It was so nice to be able to reach into a stream of cold water and wipe off your face. The boys loved seeing all of the snow.

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The change in the trail gave us a second wind. It never flattened out…I don’t know why those crackpots told us the trail flattened out, but it never did. Not even a little! I think they felt bad for us and were trying to encourage us to go on. Anyway, we got a second wind and the trail wasn’t quite as hard as it had been and the views…well…look at the photo above. That was the view. Jerl had to sit for a while here and told us to go on. We really were so very close to the prize.

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The boys and I went on. We all had fun slipping and sliding over the snow. The boys were amazed with all the snow and kept saying, “There’s snow in the summer!”

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We hiked up and turned a corner and came face to face with this. We were eye level with a mountain top! We marveled and guessed at just how high we really were as we hiked on.

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As soon as we started seeing snow, the boys wanted to make snow angels. They asked every time we came to a snowy patch, but it wasn’t until this patch that I felt like it would be safe enough. They took off their packs and had a good time playing for a few minutes.

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We rounded another corner and saw this. We really were surrounded by beauty! It felt kind of like we’d been zapped to another world.

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There’s a storm shelter near the top. We had maybe half a mile left at this point. We took a small breather to explore the cabin and then pushed on.

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And this…this is the reason we hiked all the way up there. This is the Harding Icefield! This icefield spawns off more than forty glaciers! It stretched on so far we couldn’t’ tell where it ended and the clouds started. It really looked like it just went on forever.

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Another family at the top offered to take a picture of us. We finally made it to the top!

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We turned around to head back down and to find Jerl when we noticed the mountain goats! There were two different herds of them just hanging out on the slopes.

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We started back down and found Jerl had made his way up to almost the top! He’d stopped again just before the last climb. When he found out just how close he was he made it up to the top too! I’m so glad we all got to see the Icefield! We didn’t stick around long. It had taken us five hours to get up to the top. Yup, you read that right…Five. Hours. Five hours for just over four miles and now we had to trek back down those same four-ish miles to get to the bottom. Thank goodness it doesn’t really get dark here.

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We made better time going down. Gravity was in our favor.

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The trail changes abruptly form rocks to this. It looks lovely, but if you brush against most of those plants, they’ll try to eat you. There was a ton of the wild celery which you want to avoid at all costs. There were also a ton of wild raspberry and rumors of a bear in the area. We never saw the bear.

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This was on our last rest when we still had two and a half miles to go. We didn’t stop after this until we got to the car. I don’t think Jerl and I could have gotten up and going again if we’d sat down. We made it to the car just before 9PM. It took us nine hours, but we did it! The boys were troopers. They were just as miserable as we were, but they didn’t whine or complain. We’re so incredibly proud of how they handled the whole hike.

So there you have it…the hardest thing we’ve done so far on this trip. We really should have turned back. I guess what they say is true, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.

Lesson learned.

We now know our limit. We gave the boys the day off after our hike. We didn’t do much of anything…mainly because none of us could move.

We did go back to the visitor center the next day so the boys could turn in the workbook they’d completed.

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The boys earned all four patches/badges available at the Kenai Fjords National Park!

See y’all down the road!

#alaskabound

#keepingitreal