Month: May 2020

Chaco Culture National Historical Park

Chaco Culture National Historical Park

Hey Guys! We’re back in Farmington for one more post. This time we’re taking you to Chaco Culture National Historical Park. We found out about Chaco years ago. While we were visiting a different ancient dwelling, a Ranger saw how much we enjoyed the park and she dug out a map and started telling us about some of her favorite National Parks/Monuments. I think she was thrilled to have a family who was excited about learning to talk to and we were thrilled to have some insider knowledge about what parks we should put on our list.

Chaco Canyon is the largest excavated, best preserved ancient dwelling site in North America. This National Park sits in the middle of nowhere so don’t count on cell service…or really any kind of service. Make sure you’re geared up with plenty of snacks…possibly some lunch…water, and gas for your car. You’ll want to get there early because there’s so much to see…plan on spending an entire day here.

In the visitor center there’s a great little museum that has a cool little diorama that will give you a view of what Pueblo Bonito looks like from afar. It really gives you a better perspective of just how big a Chacoan Great House was.

Chaco Canyon is home to several great houses and hundreds of smaller sites spread out over the entirety of the canyon. Above you can see a few pictures of Hungo Pavi, an unexcavated Choacoan great house they believe had about one hundred and fifty rooms.

We spent the most time exploring Pueblo Bonito. This Chacoan great house was constructed in stages between 850 CE to 1250. At that time, Chaco was basically the center of the ancestral Puebloan people’s world. It was built at the geographical center of more than two hundred communities located outside of the canyon.

Chacoan builders often times oriented great houses with solar, lunar, and cardinal directions. The doors and windows pointed to specific directions. The inhabitants of the pueblos would use these guides as a type of calendar to know when to plant crops and hold specific ceremonies.

For three hundred years, generations of people worked on building Pueblo Bonito. Looking at the size and number of rooms, you’d think that the population of this pueblo was in the hundreds, but archaeologist think the permanent population was really only around 100 people. It’s thought that the residents Chaco Canyon numbered up to 6,000 people and the great houses were more of a center of trade, politics, and community business.

When the archaeologist started excavating, they found a sealed room containing 50,000 pieces of turquoise. That would have been amazing to see! Just to give you some perspective on that turquoise find…that’s more turquoise than what’s been found at all of the other archaeological sites in the American Southwest. In another room they found 4,000 pieces of jet and fourteen macaw skeletons. The fact that archaeologists found rooms full of items that would have been traded, leads them to believe that most of the rooms in Pueblo Bonito were used for storage.

In 1941, a huge rockfall destroyed around thirty rooms and damaged a portion of a main wall. Today, there’s only so much the NPS can legally do to help maintain and preserve sites like this. At one time, they could actually replace load bearing timbers and were able to put up these support beams. Now…it’s tricky. Rangers have to walk a fine line between to preserve as much as possible within the law.

There are quite a few petroglyphs in several places with the canyon. There’s an entire wall of them. We’ve seen petroglyphs at several different ancient dwellings and it’s always interesting to try and guess what they are or mean.

Archeologist have found proof of over 10,000 years of human occupation within Chaco Canyon. Pueblo del Arroyo was built between the years of 1065 CE and 1150. The most interesting thing we found about Pueblo del Arroyo was the triple wall kiva. A tri-wall kiva is rare in the Chaco region…in fact, only about a dozen or so have been found. Another big difference with this pueblo is that it faces east instead of south the way the other great houses are.

Casa Rinconada great kiva was constructed on the top of a hill surrounded by smaller villages. This great kiva is the largest found in Chaco Canyon and one of the biggest ever found within the Chacoan world. The layout seems to be very much like the reconstructed great kiva we saw at Aztec National Memorial. If you missed that post you can find it here.

We had the best day exploring and learning while at Chaco Culture National Historical Site. We were bummed when we ran out of light and the park closed before we could see everything. We’ve decided we need to find a place to stay that’s closer so we can go back at least a few times.

If you’re anywhere near Chaco Canyon…go visit. It’s one of the best, perhaps the best, ancient dwelling sites we’ve ever been to.

See y’all down the road!

#NationalParkTour

Aztec Ruins National Monument

Aztec Ruins National Monument

Hey Guys!! We’re back in New Mexico!! This is one of our absolute favorite states to visit…and not just because the foodies here are sooo insanely good…we also really love the history and culture of New Mexico.

Each state has a feel. I know, I know…I’m getting all woo woo on you, but stay with me here… Every place has a feel to it. Usually, you associate certain feelings or emotions with a place based on your experiences there. But, sometimes you can visit a new place and you just click with it. It resonates with you in a way you might not understand, but you like. New Mexico is like that for us. We’ve liked it from the get-go…it resonates with us. So, we always look forward to spending time in New Mexico.

We spent two weeks in Farmington, NM so we could visit a couple of National Monuments and explore some close-ish by places we wanted to see that aren’t National Parks, but interesting.

One of our first stops was Aztec National Monument. No, the Aztecs never lived there. This location got it’s name from early Spanish explorers who often used the name “Aztec” pretty much anytime they found ancient sites. The people who lived and built the ancient community of Aztec National Monument are known as ancestral Puebloan people. The descendants of the ancestral Puebloan people who are still in the area don’t like to call the ancient dwellings ruins. They’re not ruins to them. They believe the spirits of their ancestors still live in those ancient dwellings.

The ancient building you find at Aztec NM is called a great house and is considered to be part of the Chaco Phenomenon. This period of time saw members of the Chaco community move to the banks of the Animas River and start building the Aztec Community around 1100 CE. These Great Houses were used as community centers where business, politics, trade, and ceremonies would have taken place.

There are places within the ancient dwelling where you can see the original ceilings. Still holding up after 900 years of use. The wooden beams are made of trees like ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, spruce, or aspen. Most of these trees are all found in higher elevations and would have required at least a twenty mile walk to get them to this site. Because of how well preserved these ceilings are…the scientist have been able to do a test called dendrochronology where they take tiny little core samples of the trees to find out the age of them by counting the tree rings. This process tells the scientist when each room of the community was built and allows them to more precisely date the ancient dwelling.

Ancestral Peublo people were living in and building the Aztec NM site from the late 100s to sometime during late 1200s. The community was so large its thought to have rivaled the size of the community found in Chaco Cannyon.

The ancestral Puebloan people incorporated solar and lunar alignments into most of their structures and used these markers as a way to determine when to plant crops, when to do certain ceremonies, and to keep a balance within the community. The inhabitants of Aztec NM often included green stones within certain walls. You can see this in the above left picture. No one really knows why they did this. Did it have meaning or was it purely decorative? There are some archeologists who believe, based on shared ideas by some Pueblos and Navajos, that the stripes could have been associated with water and believed to protect the community.

The Great Kiva was considered to be the heart and soul of the community. It is believed that great kivas would have been used as public buildings for the surrounding communities. A sanctuary. Possibly a place where different clans had meetings or held ceremonies. The great kiva at Aztec NM was excavated in 1921 by Earl Morris and then reconstructed in 1934 so that we could get an idea of what these amazing buildings would have looked like when they were being used. We’ve been to several ancient dwellings and have seen what’s left of kivas of all sizes. We’ve read what they were used for. We tried to picture in our minds what they would have looked like. We’ve listened to Rangers talk about what’s known and guessed about them…but being able to actually walk into one of the great kivas and explore it…even though it is a reconstructed one…was amazing.

The dwellings at Aztec NM consisted of several different sites. The great house we’ve been talking about was a three-story building with over 500 rooms. It held quite a few smaller kivas and also had a great kiva as it’s community center. Sometime during the late 1200s people started moving away from this area. No one really knows why. There is speculation it was a long period of drought and perhaps some social factors that caused the move, but there’s no hard evidence. We know that from this area they traveled west, south and east to what are now Hopi and Zuni communities.

When the people left, they left pieces of their lives behind. I always enjoy seeing the pottery they made. It amazes the how detailed they are.

The ancestral Puebolan people might have moved on, but the descendants of those people still come to Aztec NM to remember. They still feel a connection to their ancestors as they walk the ancient dwellings. They believe their ancestor’s spirits are still there and that the ancient dwelling is still inhabited. So, when you go visit these places please respect them and those that are believed to still be living there.

Shiprock is known by the Navajo as Tsé Bit’ a’í which means rock with wings. It stands at somewhere around 1500 feet high, making it’s peak close to 7,000 feet above sea level. Located on Navajo Nation land, Shiprock is very important to Navajo beliefs and culture. They ask that you don’t climb it or hike to it or it’s surrounding rocks. They also ask that you no longer drive down the dirt road leading to it. It is a sacred site and should be treated with reverence. Shiprock was created over a millennia ago and is at the center of three volcanic pressure points.

When we went to Shiprock, there was a group of people holding a public event along the dirt road leading up to the rock. We asked them for permission to drive a little on the road up to the rock and they told us we could. We didn’t go far and we didn’t climb on anything. In fact, we just took some pictures, marveled at the whole structure and left.

We also made it out to Four Corners where we stood in four states at once. The Four Corners complex is also on Navajo Nation land and there is a small fee to get to it. We went during the winter so there weren’t a whole lot of people. There are vendor stalls set up all around the complex so locals can sell their art. We chatted with a couple of them, bought a few things, and headed down the road. I’ve said it before…and I’ll say it again here…talk to the locals. They have some really great stories about their culture and beliefs…that they might be willing to share with you. We talked for quite a while to a woman selling sand art. She told us how she and her family go up into the surrounding mountains to find the different rocks to make the various colors needed for her art. Each color is made using a specific rock or mineral. Each has meaning. We find it all fascinating and really enjoy chatting with the local artists.

I’ll end this post with some foodies…because…well, yum! We found a pizza place called Pizza 9 and fell in love with it. We ate there several times in the two weeks we were in Farmington. Some of us have even declared it to be our favorite pizza place of all time while others still insist Back Road Pizza in Santa Fe is top of the list. We also ate a a couple of Mexican places…one was Fiesta Mexicana and I can’t remember where the other one was. Both were good! Not great…but good!

Well, that’s pretty much everything we did in the Farmington area. I’ll finish up with one more National Monument in the next post!

See y’all down the road!

#NationalParkTour

Five Year Nomadiversary!!

Five Year Nomadiversary!!

Hey Guys!! It’s that time again…it’s our Nomadiversary!! Today marks five full years of being digital nomads and living our American Dream. You know, we started this whole journey to show our boys that not all American Dreams have to look the same. Some might include a white picket fence, some have you wearing suits and working in offices, sometimes it means you go to work outside and some dreams might look like a home-on-wheels that takes you wherever you want to go. Everyone has different goals and dreams…and that’s ok. It’s those differences that make life so interesting and our Country so great. We really believe that if you can dream it, you can do it. You just have to be willing to put in the effort to make it happen.

It’s been quite the year! We started our year in Texas eating our way though BBQ places and then we spent a couple of months in Missouri visiting family. Every time we’re in Missouri we seem to have a never ending list of projects we need to work on. We did make it to Branson with my (Jennie) parents for a long weekend of family fun. And, the boys got to have Shop Class with Grandpa. We always look forward to our time with family.

We spent almost two months in Colorado finding the wild places and visiting National Parks. Colorado is, with out a doubt, one of the most beautiful states in our country. Our favorite day in Colorado was the day we went exploring up in the mountains on old mining roads.

Utah was in a word…amazing. We did some hard hikes, found some breathtaking views, drove down some awesome dirt roads and woke up with ice on the inside of our walls a few times.

We spent several weeks in Northern Arizona. before heading to New Mexico. I always forget how cold New Mexico gets in the winter. A few of us wanted an actual winter with a white Christmas so we ended our 2019 in New Mexico. We visited some new NPs and revisited an old favorite. Even as nomads we’ve developed family traditions…ours just revolve around certain places. Is it weird we feel at home in several different states?

Arizona was home to us for most of our nomadic year. We were just starting our time there when the Corona Virus started to do its thing. Luckily, we did get a little exploring done before everything closed down. Sedona has been one of our favorite areas since our very first visit back in 2015.

Ok, let’s talk about the real reason you’re all here…the foodies. We do love our local mom and pop foodie shops. And, Guys…we found some ah-mazing places this nomadic year!!

We had big plans for 2020 with tons of National Park units on the schedule. In February and March while we were in the Sedona area, we realized things weren’t going to go as planned. Due to the Corona Virus, everything started shutting down and it became almost impossible to find things in the grocery store. State and National campgrounds closed, some private RV parks were ordered to close, and…all of the National Parks closed. All of them. It’s hard to go on a National Park tour when the parks are closed and there’s no definitive answer as to when they’ll open back up.

When our reservations in Sedona ran out we decided to go ahead and keep with our planned reservation schedule. Our next stop was back to Page, AZ and honestly, we didn’t mind that it was basically a ghost town. Mostly locals. It was so different from the last time we were there when there were people in every nook and cranny.

For now, we’re hanging out in Utah, waiting to see what happens with the National Parks and the campgrounds. We’ve been enjoying the scenic drives that are close by…and the snow topped mountains aren’t the worst thing ever. ;-P

It’s been quite the eventful year for us even with this whole corona virus mess! During our fifth year of nomadary we: explored six states, visited thirty-two National Park units, drove a total of 4,689 miles, and made countless memories.

A few of our favorites from this year are hiking Angel’s Landing, exploring the mountains of Colorado, getting to talk to some Navajo while visiting their home, and hiking the Peekaboo/Spooky slot canyons.

All in all…I’d say our fifth year of living the nomad life was a success. Thanks for coming along for the ride!

See y’all down the road!

#nomadiversary

Monument Valley

Monument Valley

Hey Guys!! We spent a long weekend in Monument Valley and we crammed as much as we could in… so let’s get started!

The morning we left Page to head for Monument Valley, we woke up to snow. Our main concern was the condition of the roads, but they were totally fine. Honestly, I was beyond thrilled at the thought of getting some shots of Monument Valley with snow.

We turned off the main road and pretty much drove right out of the snow. Boo. But look how pretty the area is! I’ve always wanted to go to Monument Valley. I can remember watching old Westerns on Sundays with my dad and thinking how cool it would be to go see Monument Valley in person one day.

The first thing we did when we got there was grab some grub… because… well, that’s what we do. We’re foodies. And the Navajo Tacos were screaming my name. Screaming!

We were sitting at our table with the awesome view, eating our tasty foodies, when the snow we drove out of earlier caught up with us. It was so neat to watch it move in! And I thought…ooooo, we’re going straight over to the valley so I can grab some snowy pictures!! And it snowed until we were almost there…but then we drove out of it again. Guys, it snowed like a block away from the valley…but not in the valley. I mean, what-the-hey-diddly-do!?! Come on Mother Nature…work with me here!!

After realizing the snow wasn’t going to work with us, we took our time in the museum they have at the visitor center. There are some really beautiful jewelry and weavings on display along with some educational exhibits on the Navajo culture. We spent the most time in the Code Talkers exhibit. I don’t know if you know this about us…but we’re nerds. It always takes us so much time to go through museums.

Our first day there, we never actually made it into the valley, but I did get some very moody shots of the that iconic view. With the storm blowing through, it was extremely windy and so cold that we didn’t stick around outside too long.

We got up early the next day and headed to the valley to try and get some shots off before the crowds moved in. Yup, it was crowded. Tour buses would show up with tons of people. We didn’t see too many people out and about that morning though. I think the freezing temps and the arctic wind kept the saner people at bay.

Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park and there are still families who live in the valley itself. The park spans two states…Utah and Arizona and is somewhere close to 90,000 acres. The Navajo (they call themselves Diné which means ‘the people’) call Monument Valley Tsé Bii’Ndzisgaii (the valley within the rock). The valley drive is a seventeen mile unpaved very bumpy road. You can drive it yourself or take a guided tour. Next time we go, I’d love to do one of the tours!

We would have been tempted to take a guided tour this time, but it was freezing and so windy…and the only tour trucks we saw were all open to the elements. In the picture above you can see the dust blowing around.

The Hub has a few hogans around it. The Navajo see the Hub as a fireplace in the middle of a giant hogan. A hogan is the traditional Navajo home and if you look closely as you travel through Navajo land, you’ll see that pretty much every modern home as a hogan near it. The traditional hogan is still used by the Navajo today for ceremonial purposes.

We had to do the obligatory Forrest Gump Point photo. This was a surprisingly busy road. People would dash out for pictures in between cars. But, it’s a fun shot.

We stayed at Gouldings RV Park and you can see by the picture that we were pretty much the only ones there. I think one night we had four other campers there, but that was the most we saw at our RV Park. I think the Lodge and the hotel over in the valley were all pretty busy.

One afternoon we did the short hike from the RV Park to the Gouldings Arch. It was pretty short but it was nice to stretch our legs. I don’t really have any info on the arch, it’s not huge…but it’s a good size.

We took the opportunity to hit some places in the Monument Valley area while we were there. We went to see Mexican Hat (picture on the right). You can drive right up to it. It’s called Mexican Hat because it looks like a big sombrero. We saw quite a few horses on our explorations. I’m not sure if they were wild or not. There weren’t a lot of fences around.

Goosenecks State Park is a great little park near Blanding, UT. You can see the San Juan River makes a few tight twists and turns, making a gooseneck…or if you want to get really technical it’s called an entrenched meander. The river runs about a 1,000 feet below the overview. When we were there, we had the place to ourselves. It was wonderful. I took several pictures, but I don’t have a wide angle lens, so I settled for a panorama on my phone to capture all three bends in the gooseneck. I think we had to pay $5 at the self-pay station. There were some picnic tables around and a few primitive campsites along with a vault toilet.

After we left Goosenecks State Park we headed to Valley of the Gods. It’s kind of like a mini Monument Valley. We stopped here for a picnic lunch and had the entire place to ourselves…the view was pretty superb. You’ll have a hard time finding a restaurant with views like that. Valley of the Gods is run by the BLM and doesn’t really have any hiking trails, but you can roam around to your hearts content as you take in all of the buttes, mesas, sandstone towers, and pinnacles. This remote area used to be a part of Bears Ears National Monument. The coolest part though…two episodes of Doctor Who were filmed in Valley of the Gods! This family of Whovians was pretty stoked to find that out. It’s always fun to try and spot areas from shows/movies as we explore someplace.

We had some amazing foodies while we were staying in the Monument Valley area. We ate at The Lodge and everything we had was amazing. I had to have a Navajo Taco (right). Someone else had the Spicy Pork in Green Chili Sauce with Fry Bread (left). The menu is filled with Navajo specialties and didn’t disappoint.

We had a great time exploring the Monument Valley area! We’d like to go back one day when the weather is a little warmer…not in the summer…but warmer than frigid, so we can take a guided tour through the valley. You get to go to other parts of the valley on the guided tour so we’ll get to see something new!

See y’all down the road!

#NationalParkTour