Month: April 2020
Ghost Towns and Smoking Mountains

Ghost Towns and Smoking Mountains

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Hey Guys!! We have so much to get through in this post…so lets just dive right in!

The first place we went when we got to Page is the Carl Hayden Visitor Center. This is the visitor center for Glenn Canyon National Recreation Area and where you can find all the most up-to-date information on the hiking trails and dirt roads in the area. While we were there, the boys did the Junior Ranger program and we walked across the bridge to check out the view of the Glenn Canyon Dam.

The Glen Canyon Bridge is 700 feet above the Colorado River which makes it the second highest steel arch bridge in the world! From the walkways along the bridge, you get a pretty stellar view of the river below. We walked to the center on one side then crossed the road to see the other side.

One of our favorite adventures at Glenn Canyon NRA was driving out to Alstrom Point to get a view of Lake Powell. To get there, we found ourselves on a dirt road out in the middle of nowhere. The road started off pretty good…really we commented about how smooth it was. But I think that after a certain mileage, they decided to just let the “road” return to nature. There were a couple of times that we weren’t sure we were even on the path anymore. And then we reached the slick rock section where you have to try and follow the little cairn stacks. We got lost on this section and had to turn around and take a better look at where we thought they wanted us to go. Needless to say, it was quite the adventure! And we loved it! We made it to Alstrom Point right before sunset and had the entire place to ourselves!! The water was so still and had some amazing reflections of the redish/orange rocks. This…this is what we look for when we set out on an adventure. No crowds. Nothing but nature.

We also drove out to the Lake Powell Campground and Marina for some more views. We were there right around sunset and there weren’t too many other people there. I think the bitterly cold wind kept everyone else inside. We woke up the next day (the day we left) to find that it had snowed. There was a very light dusting of snow around Page. I wasn’t able to snag any pictures of the lake with snow…but it was pretty!

Horseshoe Bend. I’ve wanted to see Horseshoe Bend in person for years. We’d driven by the parking lot several times during our stay in Page and every single time the parking lot was jam-packed with cars and huge tour buses. And every time I thought…well, maybe next time it won’t be so crowded. But, it always was. I was running out of time to see it during our stay so we bit the bullet and went during the time of day that was supposed to offer the best lighting for it. And…it was pandemonium. Just soooo many people everywhere. Standing in line to wait for my turn at the railing I kept looking around at everyone getting those Instagram shots. What’s funny is when you see those shots on social media, it looks like that person is all alone out in the wilderness with some meditative look…but in reality…they’re surrounded by chaos. People climbing every rock trying to get that just right angle…taking seventy or more selfies…the whole thing left a bad taste in my mouth.

I took a few pictures of the bend itself, snapped some of the insane amount of people and then we left. It is pretty. And from the picture above you can’t tell that the family right next to me was doing an entire photo secession and kept sticking their arms in my shot. Or that the couple on the other side of me kept pushing at me trying to get into the perfect spot. But, I got to see it and the picture doesn’t look half bad…all things considering.

We found ourselves back in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument again! We can’t seem to stay out of this park. This time we entered from it’s southern border and headed for the ghost town of Paria. There’s not really anything left of the Paria town sight or the movie set. We really loved the colors in the rocks though!

Between a fire or two and the seasonal flooding, the only structure we saw was this vault toilet put in place by the park. And Guys, one of us (Charles) got stuck in it. I’m not even kidding. Charles got stuck in the bathroom while we were out in the middle of nowhere. The door closed and didn’t want to open back up. It took a combined effort to get him out. I can’t imagine having that happen when you’re all alone out there…with no cell service. But look at those stripes and colors on the rocks!!

We did find a little pioneer cemetery. None of the markers had names on them. Instead, there was a little plaque toward the front that had the names of everyone buried there.

We made it all the way to the river where the original town sight is rumored to have been. Again, we never saw any traces of what was once there, but we enjoyed the drive and the scenery. We used our imaginations a bit and tried to decide what buildings would have been where and talked about good and bad places to build a town.

The whole adventure to Paria took us a couple of hours and we only saw a few other people. But boy-howdy…Guys, just look at that view. It really was like that the entire drive. One amazing thing to see after another. So, even though we didn’t get to explore a ghost town, we spent some time outside soaking up some vitamin D in a gorgeous setting. I call that a win.

The last thing we did in the Page area was head back into one of our favorite National Parks, Grand Staircase-Escalante, for one more adventure. Smoky Mountain Scenic Backway will take you all the way up to the All American Scenic Byway 12, but we didn’t go the entire 78 miles.

We kind of felt like we were driving around on another planet as we drove through stark canyons and some desert slick rock. The colors of the rocks kept changing…different sections had different colors. There was very little plant life. The first picture above…with the grey rocks…that area is called The Moon and parts of the movie Planet of the Apes was filmed there. It really felt otherworldly and remote.

Sometimes, if you’re lucky (or just plan better than we did), you’ll see smoke wafting up from one of the vents of the 100 year old coal seam fire still burning deep in Smoky Mountain. Which, is where the mountain got it’s name. In the upper right picture, you can see some of the coal seams that run through the mountain and in the left picture you can see what one of the vents looks like. To see the smoke, you have to be near a vent when it’s below freezing. So…we didn’t see any smoke.

We made it to the Kelly Grade Overlook and that’s as far as we went. We’ve driven a lot of dirt roads…but the road to get up to this overlook at 6,500 feet was so narrow with blind turns…I really don’t know what we would have done if we’d met someone going the other way on this road. We sat and ogled the view while we ate lunch. Not a bad view…you know, if you like that sort of epic landscape.

I know that people call these landscapes “badlands” because they’re not really good for anything…but I find them so beautiful and interesting. I’m so thankful that our government saw the need to set aside places like this for us to explore.

We found this pizza place…Strombolli’s Italian Restaurant… Guys, it was so good! We got the sampler appetizer platter and it was so big that we didn’t have that much room for pizza. Oh! And the mozzarella sticks were so huge and obviously house made. They were amazing! The pizza was delicious. The crust had that chew that we look for with a savory sauce (not sweet). When we’re back in Page this Spring…we’re totally going back here.

Ok, Guys!! That’s it for Page!! We didn’t do some of the activities that we’d initially planned on, but we knew we’d be back in the area soon.

See y’all down the road!

#NationalParkTour
Ancient Dwellings

Ancient Dwellings

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Hey Guys!! We’re in Arizona!! Utah was so much better than I thought it would be. I mean, I knew it was going to be amazing…I’d seen all of the pictures of the various National Park Units throughout the state, but Guys, the whole two months we spent exploring Utah were way better than we’d expected.

Utah was harder than we expected too. The remoteness of it…the lack of good groceries stores…not even a Walmart in most areas that we stayed. It was really great to pull into Page and see some major chain stores! Ha!! It’s all about the little things…like being able to find the right brand of cat litter or the right dish soap.

The RV park we stayed at had these really cool covered wagons that you can book and stay in! So neat! I kept seeing people walk up to the wagons and try to get into them. I guess out of curiosity, but sheesh…can you imagine staying in one and having a constant stream of people trying your door handle? We’ll actually be back in this park on our way North after the winter passes and I think I’m going to ask someone in the office if I can see the inside of one! I’m super curious.

We stayed in the Page area so we could explore a few different National Park Units. Canyon de Chelly National Monument was quite the drive from Page, but we were the closest we would be and we all really wanted to see this park. We found out about this park back in 2015 while we were exploring Wupatki National Monument. The Ranger there told us about Canyon de Chelly and we immediately stuck it on our need-to-see list.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument is actually still home to several Navajo families. They live down in the canyon during the summer months then move up to the rim community during the winter months. I worried it would be super awkward driving around their community to the various viewpoints, but it wasn’t. Not really. Everyone we met was welcoming and had stories of their life in the canyon to tell along with some beautiful handmade jewelry or pottery to sell. If you make it to Canyon de Chelly…and I highly recommend it…make sure to take cash because you’ll want to take home some of their wonderful wares. We ended up with several things. We bought some jewelry as well as the items pictured. Everything was fairly priced. Everything was expertly made. And everything came with the opportunity to get to know one of the residents.

One thing I didn’t know before we visited Canyon de Chelly is that the National Monument is actually split up into two different canyons. Canyon del Muerto (North Rim) and Canyon de Chelly (South Rim). You drive down one then turn around and drive the other. I honestly didn’t think this park would take long. We had no plans of taking a tour down in the canyon…so I figured a couple of hours and that would be it. I didn’t plan on two different canyons with a very low speed limit! But, its all a residential area, so the speed limit makes total sense.

North Rim Drive is 34 miles round trip and has several stops along Canyon del Muerto. The maze of canyons known as Canyon de Chelly has been occupied for close to 5,000 years and has encompassed many different cultures. The current residents, the Navajos, have made this canyon their home since the 1700s.

The canyon walls go from around thirty feet at the canyon entrance to a soaring 1,000 feet in some places. At each viewpoint along the rim drive you can see evidence of both past and present residents. Right by the ancient dwelling (the Navajo don’t like to call them ruins because they don’t see them as ruins), you’ll find a freshly plowed field waiting for the seasonal planting.

When you visit Canyon de Chelly National Monument, make sure you bring some binoculars…you’ll need them. We appreciated these view finders we found at almost every spot. When you’re trying to find something all the way across the canyon…it can be hard to pinpoint exactly where you’re supposed to be looking. The view finders they have up are super helpful. We would locate the ancient dwelling with the view finder then use our binoculars to get a better look at it.

Established in 1931, Canyon de Chelly National Monument preserves and protects nearly 5,000 years of human history within the 84,000 acres that make up the park. When you visit any National Park you should be respectful of what the park is trying to preserve, but I feel like at parks like Canyon de Chelly, you should be extra careful…extra respectful. You’re essentially visiting someone’s home and when you’re a guest in someone’s home you try to learn, respect and observe their customs and beliefs.

We also made a trip to Navajo National Monument. This NPS unit protects three ancient Ancestral Puebloan dwellings built into the cliff walls of the Tsegi Canyon System. Tsegi is pronounced SAY-ih and means a spiritual and physical home.

Navajo National Monument is a smaller park with only around 360 acres. There’s a great little museum and gift shop at the visitor center. We learned so much about the Navajo culture from this park and Canyon de Chelly. The structure in the picture above is an old style hogan. A hogan is the traditional home of the Navajo people. The word hogan comes from the Navajo word hooghan (ho-won). Everything about the construction and the elements of the hogan have meaning and purpose. Everything. Even the direction you walk when you enter a hogan. The hogan is round because the Navajo (they call themselves Diné) have always believed that the world is round and that everything in our world is connected within a circle.

Navajo National Monument protects three puebloan dwellings. You can only see one of them from the trails. The Sandal Trail is only about a mile long (round trip) and it takes you down to an overlook for the Betatakin dwelling. You can also take a guided tour to see this dwelling. We would have loved to do that, but we were there in the wrong season. The Betatakin dwelling was used for about fifty years before it was abandoned. They think there were close to 100 people living here while it was occupied. The cliff dwellings are so often built in an alcove because that is a source of water. The alcoves are made from water seeping through the sandstone and they would collect the water to use while they lived there.

The Keet Seel dwelling can be seen through a guided 17 mile round-trip tour. That’s a long hike, but it’s to see one of the best preserved dwellings in the Southwest. Keet Seel is the biggest of the three dwellings protected in Navajo National Monument and was occupied much longer than Betatakin. The Inscription House is currently closed to the public because it’s unstable and not safe for people to explore.

The boys got some pretty cool swag at Navajo National Monument for completing the Junior Ranger program! We really enjoyed chatting with the Rangers there! The Ranger in the photo wanted to get her picture taken with the boys because she hadn’t seen that many Junior Ranger Badges before. It’s always fun to watch the Rangers check out all the different badges Alex and Nicholas have earned.

Let’s talk foodies! We were pleasantly surprised with the foodies in Page! Not only did we find some really good Texas BBQ…I found my absolute favorite chili rellenos! We also found prickly pear tea. We’re huge fans of anything prickly pear so we were pretty stoked to find a tea made of it!

We had a busy two weeks in the Page area. I’m going to pause here on our Page area adventures. I’ve got more adventures, more National Park Units, and more foodies to tell you about next time!

See y’all down the road!

#NationalParkTour